Yeah after we got a ton of rain this spring our lawn was a jungle of weeds and I sprayed weed b gon everywhere and it was the same way. Looked like nothing then one day I woke up and they were wilting and dying. The previous owners I don't think ever fertilized or weed treated or aerated, and they were overwatering like crazy and had let the trees get way too thick so I've really just been trying to rehab it since I moved in.
I should probably look into a different fertilizer, I've been using Scott's Southern Turf Builder with decent results but I'm sure I can do better. My parents ran a hardware store growing up so I've had the no Scott's speech before but I bought it anyway because it was on sale at Home Depot
I want to move out of my current home simply because of all the lazy faggots who won't put out a $10 of weed killer twice a year. It doesn't have to look like a golf course but for fucks sake man take a little pride.
Yeah I need to switch it up, I need to put something down here soon to help get it ready for winter. I've been doing a feeding every 3 months or so trying to help it fill in. I have a bunch of bare spots that I'm going to sod probably in spring, but thin stuff has started to fill in on its own. Our tree canopy makes it pretty tough on the grass: So just trying to do what I can for it, any advice appreciated on helping it thicken further
Those areas may not get enough sun to grow anything. Check out Sun seeker. Yeah if tit gets enough light, you'll need to amend soil and sod.
ooohhh that place has stores all around me. are weed and feed products generally good or better off getting them as separate products?
I apply fertilizer and herbicide separately. Two different products with opposing goals. Applying a fertilizer early in the growing year, then nuking emerging weeds with a contact herbicide 2 days later is a good approach.
I don't use any of the "all in one" products as far as fertilizer and weed control. Not that they don't work, but it's easier for me to keep track of exactly what I've applied over a given time. I'll pre emerge usually four times a year and fertilize about the same, but I go heavier on two of the emergents than the others and also I'll put out some liquid treatments when needed or chelated liquid iron a week before any visits from my dad in spring or summer (you know, shit has to look better than his).
Post a product list and application calendar. I want a yard half as good as yours....im over here all jealous.
This isn't my exact calendar, but if you follow this, your lawn will definitely be top notch. http://www.fertilome.com/Guides/LawnCare.aspx I could go by this and did at one time. I push it from time to time and try to get it green faster or a darker tint, things like that. This past year, I over did it with a spray fertilizer and it set me back a solid month. I'm dethatching and aerating it next spring, so I'll go easy on it until I get finished sanding it.
I have a sprayer from home Depot. Well, I have three, but that's because of not mixing and shit. They're pump sprayers, you'll figure out the nozzles pretty quickly. Iron makes grass green. In the case of certain grasses, it makes it a blueish green. It's a beautiful fucking color.
I'm likely replacing my fescue lawn and have no idea what I want to change to. I've debated Zenoth Zoysia, Bermuda, and a few others. I'm in north Atlanta, not looking to break the bank with sod (seeding would be fine by me), my yard has a pretty hefty slope, and there are some partially shaded spots to go with some full sun spots. Thoughts?
If you are going to seed, zenith is your only choice. If you are willing to sprig, emerald, empire, or z-52.
I thought overseeding zoysia in general in a bermuda lawn was a no go? If I'm wrong, I'd absolutely love to overseed with zenith..
I think that's correct. I have fescue right now, but I think I would till it all up before doing anything new.
Zenith obviously can be seeded, and there a few Bermuda types that can be seeded from what I've seen. My concern with Bermuda is that the shaded areas won't come in and I'll have the same problem I have now with my rescue lawn, just backwards (the rescue baked in the full sun spots and thrived in the partial shade spots).
Do you use fertilome products exclusively for fertilizing? I remember we used to sell the shit out of that stuff at our store
Yea, but having two different types of grass in my front yard sounds really weird... I don't think the shade is THAT bad that it should be a problem, but I have no idea. I would hate to put down zoysia or bermuda only to find out that I'm fucked.
get the sun seeker app, it'll tell you how much light you're getting and then you'll know what you can grow.
Zoysia is generally more shade tolerant than Bermuda. Bermuda hates the fuck out of it, but it also needs more water in the sun than zoysia. Bermuda stays green for longer into the fall. My zoysia is already about half dormant in Birmingham. Pretty much. Their shit works and they have something for everything. It costs a little more. I have not used their nutsedge product though. I've used image, so I know it works.
Back yard Spoiler Front yard Spoiler As you can see, the front is in much better shape than the back. Decent-sized patches of nice grass, no large, barren areas. It's unfortunate, but our next door neighbor probably has the worst yard in the neighborhood, and I'm probably inheriting some of their weed issues. The back is pretty bad, weed-wise. It's almost exclusively weeds and there are some large, dirty-only areas. The far end of the house is the worst, where it's more dirt than grass. Help me, TMB lawn specialists.
Fusiontegra, you've got a 3-4 year project on your hands but it really is easy to have a green weed free lawn. You just have to spend the money and do the work 1. put a contact herbicide out now 2. winter weed Pre-emerge herbicide now 3. depending on your area and types of weeds another herbicide application over winter (this is hugely dependent on area and grass type) 4. in February pre-emerge for summer weeds 5. fertilize in spring 6. post-emerge herbicide once weeds show up 7. repeat 5-6 in late summer 8. repeat whole process in fall 9. profit???? that back yard could use a fresh start, imo. it's salvageable though.
It's like Angry Dolphin said, to really get the weeds out and keep them out, you have to battle them from two fronts - pre germination and post germination. Keep as many as possible from germinating next season and zap any that manages to sneak by. Also, birds, wind, and lots of other critters bring seeds in from elsewhere.
GoodForAnother you need to get the Lesco products at HD. They are what golf courses, etc., use. My experience with them has been very good. Scenario: I've posted on here and CAN grow a really nice winter TTF (fescue) lawn in winter. This year, I planted too early from seed (just to see if it would work), so a lot didn't germinate. Probably a combo of hot nights and dry weather in October. I have a very shady backyard. My recollection is that the only warm season grass that would really work in shade is St. Augustine. I have no problem with this. HOWEVER... We have a bunch of hickory/pecan trees in our backyard. My remembrance is that that is a no-no for St. Augustine thanks to the tree chemicals that roots/bark/nuts emit. Am I right? Any experience? Interested if any of you have dealt with this. Scenario 2: our front yard is full sun. We have a good Bermuda lawn. Do any of you do winter ryegrass? I've heard this has an aerating effect on Bermuda. Am willing to give it a try if so.
Things are a fucking pain in the ass to dig up too. Corner of my lawn im trying to get my zoysia to grow into looked like the moon after i dug maybe 20 nutsedge fuckers up
I've got too old for digging that shit. Spray, spray, and spray some more. What will pis you off is if you sand a low spot or a dead spot. That shit is the first thing to grow every time. It LOVES this wet, soggy ass ground too. It's growing at about an inch per day in the few spots I still have it.
Yeah the shit I have grows like gangbusters so I'm guessing it really is nutsedge and not some other grass. I put down that ortho nutsedge killer today and will see what it does
i went through 2 jugs of roundup this year. my issue was two fold. 1. i didnt get enough pinestraw for my pine island the first time 2. the way the wind blows from the small area of woods, i need to kinda level it between there and my driveway (imagine like a 5 foot buffer but it is a fairly steep incline from the road all the way up to my back fence), got two stumps that need to be removed, put some pavers on the backend to keep it raised up, mulch it, and put some bushes there to catch all the bullshit (seeds etc) flying across my yard. was gonna get a landscaper or two to give me an estimate come feb/march
Sup bros? St Augustine lawn checking in. Noticing a lot of patches in my yard lately, the grass isn't totally dead, but it's pretty brown. The grass in these areas also is barely growing at all, like 1/10 the speed of the grass around it. I pulled some out today, came right out. Spoilered is a giant photo of the roots. Any ideas? Pests? fungus? It's ugly so if you know how to fix please tell me. Spoiler
double RL , audrew or anyone else who knows anything about lawns. I can't grow shit in my yard. There's a ton of shade and the soil is slightly sandy and seems acidic although I have no clue if that's true or not. You can see how small my yard is and I want to just sod the front yard. What type of grass should I go with? http://www.turfgrasssod.org/pages/consumer-resources/types-of-grasses Based on this, it seems like I should go with Zoysia, Tall Fescue, Ryegrass, or Centipedegrass. Which of those should I go with? Or should I go with something else? How much ballpark should it cost? This shit's killing me.
Zoysia is usually one of the best when faced with trouble....but since you have so much shade, I'd go with centipedegrass.
I have no idea about the acidic part, but my soil is very sandy and st Augustin seems to love the shade especially Takes quite a bit of water though
Just cut my amigo a $900 check to kill all the weed patches that make up my yard and rip out all my shitty shrubbery and replace is with nicer plants that I can't remember the name of. Next week I'll be writing him a $1,000 check to pressure wash my property, remove some tree stumps, roll my yard, lay new seed, and plant some trees. Owning a home---woo.
It's really really tough to have a nice lawn with a really shady lawn. That's why the guy up the street that hired me to redo his super shady lawn now has a huge mulch island that weaves in and out through the shady areas. Having said that, don't rule out using a dwarf mondo grass for a lawn. http://www.walterreeves.com/gardening-q-and-a/mondo-grass-making-a-lawn/
I love it when my neighbor comments on how well my lawn looks.... I am being sarcastic because this is the neighbor whose yard is nothing but chickweed and they are the reason I can never get completely rid of that shit.
Random question for you guys thought I would see if anyone knows the answer... I live in Nashville and have a tall fescue lawn. I began in early March with a spreading of fertilizer with pre emergents crabgrass control in it. Shit looks amazing and green as fuck but.... Here comes the clover and dollar weed. Is it too soon to apply a weed and feed being as I used the pre emergent 2 months ago? Is t weed and feed twice a year or just any type of fertilizer in general can only be applied twice a year?