Official Gardening/Homesteading thread: Our back yards are our grocery stores

Discussion in 'The Mainboard' started by lhprop1, Apr 9, 2015.

  1. Open Carry

    Open Carry TMB Rib Master
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  2. BIGASSTITTIES

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  3. Open Carry

    Open Carry TMB Rib Master
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    How did you know when to pick the jalapeños?
     
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  4. BIGASSTITTIES

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    They get this kind of glossy sheen to them. You can leave them on until they turn red but I prefer the flavor / texture when they're still green
     
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  5. Open Carry

    Open Carry TMB Rib Master
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    Black cherry, reisentraube, sungold, cayenne, mystery pepper, jalapeño. The mystery pepper turned out to taste like a bell pepper, but has the slightest amount of heat to it.

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. pez

    pez Competent
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    Cajun belle then maybe?
     
  7. Doug

    Doug Skeptical Doug-o
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    That's what a Cajun Belle tastes like but the picture doesn't look like Cajun Belle
     
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  8. pez

    pez Competent
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    #1158 pez, Jul 24, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2016
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  9. Open Carry

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  10. BIGASSTITTIES

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    [​IMG] Habaneros from hell
     
    BayouMafia, -Asshole-, 42yard and 5 others like this.
  11. Fister Roboto

    Fister Roboto Well-Known Member
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    Whats up with people in decent houses in suburbs not using weed eaters?
    Mow yard, but weeds grow where curbs meet street and on sidewalks. Makes neighborhood look cheap/trashy.
     
    #1161 Fister Roboto, Jul 24, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2016
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  12. Open Carry

    Open Carry TMB Rib Master
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    Laziness and/or apathy
     
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  13. Fister Roboto

    Fister Roboto Well-Known Member
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    I understand the reason..Its just frustrating
     
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  14. Struggler

    Struggler Well-Known Member
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    This land's mine!... I can go out and take a piss on it in the middle on the night if I want to!
     
  15. Fister Roboto

    Fister Roboto Well-Known Member
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    Idgaf if neighbors walk around with their cocks flapping in the wind as long as they arent lazy cunts and keep up the neighborhood.
     
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  16. lechnerd

    lechnerd They say Monaco is a sunny place for shady people
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    I'm one of the few people in my neighborhood who mows my own lawn. Almost everyone else pays someone to do it. It's the weirdest thing.
     
  17. frodeo

    frodeo Obviouly you're not a golfer

    I've got a few datil peppers ready for pickin'. What should I do with them?
     
  18. Taques

    Taques sometimes maybe good sometimes maybe shit
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    relish
     
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  19. frodeo

    frodeo Obviouly you're not a golfer

    Looking at this recipe. Any critiques?
    1 lg. bell pepper
    3 datil peppers
    2/3 c. white sugar
    1 tsp. salt
    1 clove garlic
    2 lg. onions
    1 c. vinegar
    1/3 c. brown sugar
    1 qt ketchup

    Taques
     
    #1169 frodeo, Jul 26, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
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  20. BIGASSTITTIES

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  21. Open Carry

    Open Carry TMB Rib Master
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    Anyone ever use cattle panels for tomato support? In my second year of gardening, my tomato plants have grown well out of the cages and are probably 8 feet tall at this point. I had bought some bamboo stakes to support them, but we got a strong thunderstorm last week and knocked all the tops over. I've about given up on tomato cages.

    I'm looking at doing trellis arches next year. Something like this:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  22. fish

    fish Impossible, Germany
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    My tomato plants have stopped producing. They look full, lush, and green but just aren't setting fruit and there are no flowers on them. I think the soil is used up. I've ramped up the feeding to no avail. Think I'm going to pull 'em on Monday and replant. Plenty of time left for a second crop.
     
  23. Open Carry

    Open Carry TMB Rib Master
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    Did you get determinate type plants? They only produce once then they're done.
     
  24. fish

    fish Impossible, Germany
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    Honestly, couldn't tell you. This was my first season growing tomatoes. Bought the plants at the Depot and didn't really pay attention to that.
     
  25. fish

    fish Impossible, Germany
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    Based on some brief research, I'd say they are not determinate plants. They produced steadily for about ~six weeks. There are a few tomatoes on the larger plant but have been sitting green for a long time now. Nor are they as large.

    Two plants here, cherry in front with a big boy behind it. The big boy plant is huge and still growing strongly.

    [​IMG]
     
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  26. billdozer

    billdozer Well-Known Member
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  27. blotter

    blotter Aristocratic Bum
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    that's what i use in my greenhouse. cut them up and bend them at 90deg to make a 18"x18" cage by 54"(?) height. stole that idea from some blog somewhere

    [​IMG]

    that's from a few(?) weeks ago. can't really make them out, but a few in there, some regular cages, and whatever else. they've outgrown them though. also this about the time I discovered russet mites in both greenhouses.

    would rather have any pest, disease or pathogen besides these things, you can tell the tops of the tomato plants are starting to grow irregularly here. these guys are naked to the eye, can hitch a ride on a thrip, and will take over shit if left unchecked.

    my natural predator population was keeping up, sprayed for leafhoppers and took some predators which allowed these things which I'm sure were there to announce themselves. caught them pretty early, but having to spray with an organic fungus based pesticide every few days that is beneficial insect friendly to keep things under control. they inject a virus while feeding which I'm trying to keep at bay by pushing the plants own SAR (Systemic acquired resistance) watering with aspirin (srs) and a couple other products with this in mind. quit my job to slap up these greenhouses on some land in my family, other one is herb, thought I had everything lined up, but these things came in, or more likely I brought them in from another grow, and humbled me some, but I feel like I'm a better grower and will always begin things from seed and set up natural defenses as humans continue to create new superbugs over time. moving on from this spot after the fall and probably just going to do a some through hikes the next couple years and settle in somewhere and start the real homestead. anyway sorry for the dear diary post, obviously needed to hash that out a bit
     
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  28. BIGASSTITTIES

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  29. Open Carry

    Open Carry TMB Rib Master
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  30. pockets

    pockets Lesser-Known Member
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    My crop sucks as I am stuck with a 10x2 garden next to a fence. But I have a 5' tall okra plant. God damn what a beast.
     
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  31. Open Carry

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    Mozz from the farmers market with my first Paul Robeson tomato of the season with some basil picked from the garden.

    [​IMG]
     
  32. bigred77

    bigred77 Well-Known Member
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    you didnt home grow that mozzarella?
     
  33. Open Carry

    Open Carry TMB Rib Master
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    Fresh off the mozzarella tree
     
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  34. bigred77

    bigred77 Well-Known Member
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    you need a mozzarella goat
     
  35. Open Carry

    Open Carry TMB Rib Master
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    That would help with cutting the grass too. I don't know anything about goats though
     
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  36. bigred77

    bigred77 Well-Known Member
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    i think thats all you need is grass
     
  37. StevieJanowski

    StevieJanowski Owner of a rug that really ties the room together
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  38. billdozer

    billdozer Well-Known Member
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    I've lost hives the last 2 years where I checked for and didn't find mites so I didn't treat. After reading up on it, the losses appeared to have been due to mites, so I'm treating no matter what. I got an oxalic acid vaporizer that I will use that is supposed to be highly effective. Oxalic acid has just been approved for use in the US, but Europe has been using it for years with success. It's also naturally occurring in the hive.

    For those with bees, this is a good guide for treatment options: http://honeybeehealthcoalition.org/Varroa/
     
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  39. billdozer

    billdozer Well-Known Member
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    Also, for those with bees in the SE, here's a good article on prepping the bees for the winter from Jennifer Berry from UGA. I've gotten bees from many places and the one's I've gotten from her have been by far the best. I don't plan on buying bees much in the future, but if I do, I'll only get them from her.

    October In The Southeast
    by Jennifer Berry
    October in Georgia is lovely. It’s the month we cherish the most at the bee lab. The sun has mellowed, the air is consistently cool, and the evenings are crisp. Landscapes are turning into Afremov paintings, and the skies are crystal blue. AC units are no longer humming 24/7, and windows are open. The days of sweat soaked shirts, wilting attitudes and heat exhaustion are nothing more than a bad memory.

    And most importantly for us, working in the beeyard is actually pleasurable. Yet, the steamy, hot and humid days are still upon us since it’s August while I sit and write. The saying for this month has been, “Boy, I can’t wait till October arrives,” as we slice through our days in the beeyard. It’s rough working colonies during the Summer, especially in the South, and I don’t remember a hotter one. During the month of August, nectar flows have pretty much dried up in most places – therefore thousands of bored, frustrated, little foragers are stuck in the hive – their only outing is to fetch a droplet of water to keep the colony cool. But, as you read this, it’s no longer August – it’s October. No more excuses about being too hot, too sticky, too tired. So before frosty limbs stand bare, we need to make sure our colonies are prepared for their long Winter’s nap.

    There are three key principles you must pay attention to if you want your colony to survive the Winter:
    Large healthy population headed by a productive queen
    Sufficient food stores accessible to the Winter cluster
    Protection from the elements (wind and rain)

    Let’s get to work. The first thing we check during our Fall assessments is whether or not there is a queen, and secondly her performance. How is she doing? What does her pattern look like? Is she even laying eggs? You want a viable queen with a solid pattern that will be ready to kick it into gear by mid-Winter (in preparation for the Spring nectar flow). If she has been limping along all Summer, it’s time to let her go. Otherwise, the colony will suffer. However, if the pattern is spotty, you may want to look for other problems first, such as disease or mite infestation, before automatically assuming it is a poor queen.

    [​IMG]
    Fall assessments.

    There are several reasons your queen may no longer be performing well. She may have been reared from older larva; she may not have been properly mated (too few drones to choose from, or the weather may have kept her from making the numerous mating flights needed). Other problems could be that she is too old, not producing adequate pheromones, she is running out of sperm, or that her physical condition was compromised due to manipulations within the hive. Whatever the reason, letting your colonies go into Winter with poorly performing queens is like handing them a death sentence. Of course, finding a queen this late in the season will be a challenge – most operations have shut down for the Winter. Plus, if the colony isn’t very strong, it is best to just combine with another – one that needs a slight boost. It’s better to take your losses in the Fall when you can still save the bees and equipment from possible demise!
    [​IMG]
    Entrance feeder.

    A quick side note here: be careful working your hive, especially if you have more than one colony per yard. October can be the worst month for robbing (that’s when bees from one colony will “rob” or take the honey from another colony). Opening a hive exposes honey, which wafts in the air and stimulates bees in nearby colonies into a frenzy. Plus, with all that dripping honey and exposed surface area, the bees are unable to defend it. If you’ve ever seen a robbing event, then you understand how horrible it is. Even the strongest of colonies left exposed can succumb to a robbing frenzy. This all goes to say, when conducting your Fall inspections, bring several extra lids, covers, or even a towel to cover surfaces. You just need to keep the neighboring bees from gaining access to the supers. And if you can help it, don’t pull out frames of honey. In the upper supers, which should be mostly capped honey, pull just the center frame and maybe two outer frames. You don’t need to inspect each one. If it’s all or mostly capped, put the frames back, cover it, and move on to the next super. Each time a frame is removed, you may break the wax coating, exposing even more honey and attracting even more bees. Also, work at a diligent pace – don’t dally. Put the cell phone down, and press on! If robbing begins, close the hive immediately and reduce the entrance to a small hole, just big enough to let one or two bees through.
    After we’ve made sure the queen is healthy, wealthy and wise, we need to check on how much honey supply the colony has. This is a crucial step in any honey bee management plan. Here at the bee lab, we always assume they don’t have enough. That way we don’t get caught off guard when conducting our mid-Winter inspections, and find starving or starved colonies. If colonies are lacking the required amount of honey to survive the Winter, you will need to feed. And, if your colonies need a substantial amount of food, you must start feeding today! Once the temperatures drop, the bees won’t be able to break cluster to collect the food. All the syrup in the world will be useless if the bees can’t get to it. Here in the south, we can experience a modest goldenrod flow this time of year, depending on location. Our experience with the goldenrod in the Piedmont region has been minimal to none. Don’t rely on it to supply their Winter nectar needs here. Now pollen, that’s a different story.

    So, how much food is enough? For every frame of bees, (note: this is specific to the southeast ONLY), you should have one and a half frames of capped honey for Winter survival. We used to say between 35 and 40 pounds of honey for a deep box of bees here in the south, but my experience has proven this is not enough.

    Let’s back track a bit. The nectar flow is usually completely over by July, and there’s not much after that. There may be a smidge of wildflower here, or a drop of Aster there, but basically it’s done. That means your bees have to survive from July to April with what they have in the cells. If your colony is shy on stores, then you need to start feeding, otherwise they will starve – which is one thing we can absolutely, hands down, prevent from happening. And please, don’t get caught up in the rhetoric that claims ‘if bees aren’t smart enough or don’t have the genetic makeup to find and store enough food, they’re not worthy – don’t feed them, let them die, letting the negative genes die with them! There are many reasons why bees don’t have enough to eat, most of which have nothing to do with the bees, their genetics, or otherwise. It has everything to do with poor location, extracting too much honey, badly timed swarms, improper management, rotten weather, too much or not enough rain. . . All of these have nothing to do with bees being “lazy.” Honey bees need your help these days to survive, so if they are light on stores you need to start feeding today.

    There are many feeder options. Over the years, we have tried practically every type of feeder available. After years of trial and error, we have settled on a favorite. But before I reveal what we use, let me explain why the others have lost favor with us. The first feeders I was ever exposed to were entrance feeders (this may be your experience as well, since most starter kits come with an entrance feeder). These are my least favorite type of feeder, despite their convenience. All you do is fill a quart jar, screw on the lid, push the holder into the entrance, plop the jar on and walk away. And, with it being in the entrance, you can see when it is time to re-fill the jar – never once having to open the hive. However, you are feeding only one quart at a time. This method could take months before you have any substantial amount of stores build up. Another problem is robbing, which I’ve mentioned previously. The odor of the syrup will draw unwanted neighbors straight to the front entrance. If conditions are right, the “robbers” can overwhelm the colony leaving them with nothing to eat and in a weakened state or worse, dead. Even if you only have a few colonies, take caution because there may be a neighbor down the street that has numerous hives you know nothing about.

    Division board feeders are also on our “No” list, but they do eliminate the problem of robbing, since the food is inside the colony. Division board feeders are the width and depth of a deep or medium frame, and are usually placed on the edge of a super (Figure 4). In addition to hive manipulation, and the loss of a functioning frame, bees can drown, sometimes by the hundreds, in the syrup. Manufacturers have added pieces of 8” hardware cloth or floats to help reduce the risk of bees drowning, but it’s still not 100%. Plus, beware, there’s still another issue lingering! Beetles love the dark, protected areas these feeders provide.

    Next, we have hive top feeders which, as the name conveys, fit on top of the hive. To install, you remove the lid and inner cover, place the feeder directly on top of the upper super, fill it with the appropriate amount of syrup, put the lid back on, and walk away. There is little to no disturbance in the colony because you don’t have to dig around inside and manipulate frames. The bees will crawl up the hardware cloth from the super below and down to the syrup pool to feed. They are made to fit a standard 10 or eight frame hive body but there are ones available to fit nucs. Most have a self-enclosed, plastic unit holding one to five gallons of sugar syrup depending on the brand. These feeders tend to work the best, because they prevent leaking. If you need to put on a large amount of feed in a short amount of time, this may be a good option for you. There are a few pitfalls, though.

    One issue with hive-top feeders: if not properly sealed, they can allow bees, yellow jackets and other snooping insects to get trapped in the inner chamber of the feeder and drown. Bees are able to squeeze their way through the smallest of openings, like under the inner cover, or they slide between the narrow openings in the wire mesh and outer wall. Producers of the newer hive top feeders have tried to eliminate this issue by making the feeders flush with the super, and by leaving no space for the bees to enter the syrup chamber from the outside. Then, if the slightest amount of sugar syrup leaks outside the colony it can draw in bees by the thousands. Even the strongest of colonies can be overwhelmed once clouds of bees force their way inside. There is also the issue of cost – they are expensive. If you have more than one colony to feed, the cost goes up considerably.

    Entrance, division board and top feeders will not deliver the needed syrup if temperatures are cold. The food delivery method needs to be right on top of the cluster; it cannot be to the side, at the entrance, or in a top feeder where the bees have to traverse up and around cold surfaces to access the syrup. If temperatures are frigid, the bees will not be able to move any distance at all. Bees in cluster can starve with pounds of honey or gallons of syrup just inches away. This usually occurs when warmer weather is followed by extreme cold that sets in for days. The bees eat all of the surrounding honey and can’t move to access the rest. Normally, larger clusters are not as susceptible to this, but smaller clusters can loose the battle quickly if they get separated from the honey source. That’s why it’s a good idea during your fall assessments to move honey frames in closer and on top of the cluster. Remember bees prefer to move up and will do so during the winter so a good supply of honey above – not below – is recommended.

    [​IMG]
    Division board feeder.

    Buckets are another way to apply large amounts of syrup at a time. Suppliers usually sell one gallon buckets with a removable plug in the center. To use these, you fill the buckets with syrup and turn it upside down with the plug intact. Vacuum suction keeps the liquid from pouring out. But be careful! If the seal has been compromised, or if the plug isn’t inserted properly, the syrup may pour out all at once. Not a good idea to drench your colony with a gallon of sugar syrup. When feeding, we bring a five-gallon bucket with us to the yard. Just prior to setting the bucket onto the colony, we turn it upside down over the extra five-gallon bucket and let it drain. Once syrup is no longer dripping, we place it onto the colony. It’s best not to let it spill onto the ground around your colonies since this action will attract robber bees, ants, those beloved yellow jackets, and other sugar-seeking critters.
    Besides the syrup pouring out, there are other issues to consider when using buckets. For one, the bees will coat the metal grid attached to the plug with propolis, which is a problem because the grid needs to be cleaned periodically. Secondly, you will need an extra empty deep super per colony. Some beekeepers avoid this practice by placing the bucket directly over the opening of the inner cover and then laying the outer cover (lid) on top of the bucket, but I fear this approach. A good wind gust and both the lid and bucket could be tossed aside, leaving an opening into your colony. However, I know several commercial beekeepers that use this method and have never had a problem. If your colonies are in the backyard, or otherwise nearby and easily accessible, this may be an option worth considering.

    [​IMG]
    Bucket feeder.

    Other feeding options include Ziploc baggies, plastic soda bottles, and trays. We’ve tried them all, and found issue with each, which is why we’ve settled on the ol’ standby to feed our bees: two-holed (with 2-7/8” apertures) migratory covers with inverted half-gallon mason jars. The feeder caps have dozens of small holes punched through to allow access to the syrup and, like the buckets, once you turn the jar upside down, vacuum suction prevents the syrup from pouring out. Yes, there are issues with this method as well, (glass breakage, leaks, and jars being knocked off to name a few) but at some point you just have to settle on one thing and go with it. No matter what time of year, if your colonies are close to starvation, place the opening of the jars or bucket directly on top of the cluster. This allows the bees to use minimal effort to collect the syrup, especially if the weather outside is frightful.
    There’s also the question of what ratio cane sugar to water (by weight) to feed this time of year: 2 to 1, or 1 to 1? We’ve never been so meticulous at the bee lab (or home) as to weigh components; we just have a feel for it. Granulated cane sugar is added to about the ¾-full point in a five-gallon bucket and then hot water stirred in until full. I imagine that our concoction is somewhere in between.

    [​IMG]
    Feeding option we prefer. Two five-pound honey jars which equates to 1 gallon of feed being fed each time.

    The last chore we need to perform before settling in next to the fireplace is to inspect equipment. First of all, move brood frames with old comb (three+ years) or nasty black comb in honey supers to the outer edge for removal next Spring. Research has shown that old comb is a reservoir for numerous contaminants, which is detrimental to the developing brood. Next, replace old, decrepit hive bodies, supers, lids, inner covers, and bottom boards with newer equipment. They don’t have to be pristine palaces, but they do need to protect the bees from the upcoming Winter weather. Holes, cracks, and crevices allow cold winds to wick away at the cluster. Plus, cold rain dripping down on bees and brood is a recipe for disaster. These holes also allow access for critters to come and go. Mice especially love to make beehives into a home. Continual food supply and a warm cozy environment makes a hive a suitable rodent dwelling. Structurally tight equipment along with mouse guards will deter these wind, rain, and critters.

    A viable queen, healthy population, ample food stores and sound equipment are all you need for your colony’s survival. It may seem like a lot, but it really isn’t. We accept responsibility for these creatures when we decide to bring them into our lives, and sometimes they’re going to need a little assistance – but just think what they give back in return! I’m willing to help out, and I hope you are too.

    Take care of you and your bees!

    Jennifer Berry is the Research Leader at the UGA Bee Lab and beekeeper and queen producer.
     
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  40. BIGASSTITTIES

    BIGASSTITTIES Fan of: BIGASSTITTIES
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    Today is pickling day.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  41. fish

    fish Impossible, Germany
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    [​IMG]

    This is my response.

    [​IMG]

    There will be blood. Best bait to use? I've heard peanut butter is good but welcome any suggestions.
     
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  42. bigred77

    bigred77 Well-Known Member
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    squirrel?
     
  43. fish

    fish Impossible, Germany
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    Thought it was a rat, but I've not seen the culprit. We have an open field on the other side of the fence and some neighbors have mentioned the occasional rat. Either way, I'm hopeful that the spray does a good job.
     
  44. bturns

    bturns a better poster than Bertwing
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    Spray may help but it won't deter that much. Kill that fucker.

    We have a fox problem right now. Has killed 15 chickens in the past 2 weeks. Even tied out the hounds in front of the barn coops and she still managed to sneak in the back. Finally broke down and bought a trap. Going to kill the asshole and starve out her babies.
     
  45. billdozer

    billdozer Well-Known Member
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    That sucks. We had a peregrine falcon killing a chicken a day earlier this year. Luckily, we put out a scarecrow and haven't had an issue since.
     
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  46. BIGASSTITTIES

    BIGASSTITTIES Fan of: BIGASSTITTIES
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  47. fish

    fish Impossible, Germany
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    Very nice work.
     
  48. Taques

    Taques sometimes maybe good sometimes maybe shit
    Staff Donor TMB OG
    The Real Movement

    good haul today

    [​IMG]
     
  49. J.R. Bob Dobbs

    J.R. Bob Dobbs Fan of: Firing Coaches, Cutting Players

    Taques you got a link to any sort of guide to growing peppers.

    I need a babby's first peppers level guide