Apologies if we already have a thread for car repairs, couldn't find one. My headlights went out tonight, both at the same time. Daytime running lights work but not the night time headlamps. If it were the bulbs it would be unusual for both to go out at the same time so I can't imagine they are the culprit. I replaced the fuses (there is one fuse each for the passenger and driver's side headlamps) without success and I also replaced the relay which was located right next to the fuses. Again no luck. Any other thoughts? Am I looking at a wiring issue likely? appreciate any help
Haven't dealt with that myself (and I'm no car expert), but possible the actual headlight switch isn't working?
Year? Full electrical or a switch issue is unlikely if it's relatively new. Also check for recalls, my last car was a Subaru I loved but it ate bulbs like a fat chick at red lobster. It was a known issue with the weather sealing of one chamber of the headlight.
2007 chevy tahoe. I can control the daytime lights with the switch. Could it still be a problem with the switch if that was the case? Any way to check without buying a switch?
I doubt that, get under the dash, turn the switch to on and check it with a voltmeter, Much easier said than done. Or, unplug the harness from the dead bulb flip the switch to on and check the contacts with a voltmeter, if there is current your bulbs are bad, can also just pull a bulb and do visual. It's obvious when they are blown. Beyond that not sure, seems strange that both harnesses would lose one light but not the other.
Would be weird for both bulbs to go bad, but I suppose if your relay went bad, it could have taken out both bulbs with a surge
Kind of my thought. Power surge. I'm just weird and slow so I like busting out the scientific method and wasting time, while I drink beer.
1. Drive that piece of shit right into the nearest river 2. Go to your local Mercedes dealer 3. Buy most expensive Mercedes 4. ??????? 5. Bounce around from various shit storm Texas teams to cheer for...depending on which one is the best in that shitfest they call the Big 12 6. Lie or refer to Dr. Google when you can't answer that daily "I'm a doctor, ask me anything" post. 7. Change your username based on the best player you think didn't gang rape a 20 year old. 8. Save 15% or or more by switching to Geico 9. Profit
Only poors fix their cars. I gave sound advice in my list of instructions. If you can't afford to do so then go get an MD like me. If you need assistance you can ask me anything...i'm a doctor that likes to post several threads about whenever I happen to come in contact with a woman's breast. I have stock tips.
Found this link to a Chevy forum, specifically Tahoe, with similar problem. Doesn't sound like there is one solid fix. Issue could be one of a few different things. Might be better off having someone look at it so you aren't spinning your wheels about it. But maybe something in the link is worth trying http://www.automotiveforums.com/t430891-my_headlights_won_t_turn_on_but_my_dtrl_works.html
Thanks that is helpful. I am a little weary of messing with factory wiring. I forgot to mention the highbeams work it's only the low beams that don't work.
90's and 00's GM vehicles had tons of wiring problems and GM had multiple recalls due to failures. so entirely possible that both of the bulbs just went out. good luck ever solving the problem. My old 03 S10 and 05 Malibu went through bulbs like mad every change of season. I always kept a few bulbs and grease in the glove box so I could change them.
I need to diagnose a similarly perplexing issue - a small evap system leak. First place to start is the solenoid by the front valve, next place is the evap cannister. Otherwise, the hard plastic hose cracked and will be a bitch to find. Also need to replace spark plugs and cable wires. Typically not an issue, but placement on the Jepp can eat a giant dick. Just not easy to get to. And we're getting into winter. So that will suck too.
I've been having car trouble lately and I'm horrible at repairing cars, so here we go: Things you should know - - 2000 Lexus RX 300 - 178K miles - Last oil change mid-September 1. Whenever I'm driving and accelerating, my car jerks, like it's having trouble keeping up with the speed I desire. 2. When I'm at a stop light, or stop sign and the car is in Drive but idle, the RPM meter on the tachometer jumps up and down, and the engine/car jerks a little, and when I let off the brake the car kinda rushes ahead before I've even put my foot down on the pedal. 3. Driving on an incline up a bridge, or hill, or accelerating past 60mph the gas pedal feels like it's not even working, while the car jerks frontwards and backwards like it's struggling. Anyone know what the problem could be?
Well I know there is such a thing as johnson rod, that costs about $300. There's also the other johnson rod if we're doing innuendo's tonight. So which is it?
Could be injectors or computer. Most likely a sensor. I'd check TPS, MAF and OS sensors first. In that order. Most all auto part stores have a free diagnostic they will run for you and you can just write the codes down and search google for them if the parts place guy doesn't have a manual for your car.
Without looking at your car I bet it's the motor mount. They're not terribly expensive but they are usually in an inaccessible place. Are you leaking fluid by chance? You'd probably be fine continuing to drive but not fixing the motor mount causes damage elsewhere. The engine is jumping all over the place because it is not stabilized anymore by the non-functioning motor mount and that causes other structures to break. Two other things to consider are low transmission fluid and a clogged transmission filter. If anyone was curious my headlamps problem was the bulbs exactly as bigred77 suggested. I never thought it would've been the bulbs as both lights went out at the same time but sure enough I changed them out and...lights! Appreciate the help.
Mass Airflow sensor is probably going to be between 75-125, Throttle Position sensor 75-100, Oxygen sensor 100 - 200 depending on name brand. That's at places like autozone. I have no idea about at a dealership, probably a 100% markup or close so double the prices listed. None of these take a rocket surgeon to replace if you have a basic set of tools. I'd bet you can look every one of them up on youtube to see how to do the job. Just from what you described, my bet is the throttle position sensor, but again it could be any number of things. Smartest thing to do is get the free diagnostic and find out where the problem is, even if you plan on taking it to a dealer. At least they won't be able to screw you over as much as if you went in blind. Dealers love the "not sure whats wrong, it does this and that' ....pure gold for dealership mechanics.
Here's one for the OS sensor. It might be in a slightly different location on your specific model, but it will be close. Always mounted on your exhaust, and pretty easy to find. You will need a special socket to remove, but the new sensor usually has one in the box. If not you can rent one for most any auto parts place.
always start with the simple stuff, especially when it only costs about $5 to replace remember its a $5 part, they aint made to last all that long or they would cost more
Just an update for those who responded to my original post: Diagnostic said I need new Ignition Coil and Spark Plugs. Guy at dealership said maybe new Oil Valves?
Codes? Everything you mentioned would lean towards a misfire of some sort, assuming the check engine light is on. Misfires can be caused by any number of spark/fuel related issues. The code doesn't always tell you exactly what needs to be replaced, but will get you pointed in the correct direction on what you need to test or inspect.
Sounds like a Throttle Position Sensor. Also called a TPS sensor a lot of the time (no shit). I just replaced the sesor on my Jeep and I have had better response from it.
Ignition Coil and Spark plugs? Hmm, maybe. Spark plugs are ridiculously simple to change you just have to be careful to torque them to the right amount and not strip the threads in the engine, and with your mileage, it might not be a bad idea to change them out.
Yep, you are getting misfires. Thats the jerking you are feeling, a coder will read that very easily. Replace all spark plugs first (cheapest option, you want to all at the same time for efficiency) and see if you are having the same issue. If so, you can either replace the one coil pack on the cylinder that you are having the misfire or replace all cylinders coils (more $)
I had a similar issue on an 03 Mercedes, except my car would jump back and forth when stopped. It was the spark plugs.
So the dealership called and said there's really "nothing" they can do to repair my car unless I'm spending thousands. Really. They said to change the spark plugs they will need to use wrenches to get in there and the tubes are crumbling apart as it is. Also I asked if there was anything I could get done at this juncture to help the car drive short-term and the guy said they technician will need 4-5 more hours on diagnostic tests to figure out what he can do, which is $130 per hour. Am I getting completely screwed here? I told him to hold off doing anything else before hearing from me again. He said I should trade it in.
Any "tech" that needs more than an hour to diagnose the source and solution to a misfire, is a complete and utter idiot who needs to find another profession. Take your car out of the dealership, and find a solid independent shop with good reviews. The starting point is going to be plug replacement. Depending on where the misfire is currently(which cylinder), you may want to shift the coils from the misfiring cylinder to an easily accessible non misfiring cylinder when doing the plugs. The right bank of plugs/coils on that engine are a pain in the ass to get to, the left are not. So naturally, if you have a misfire on the buried bank, swap that coil with one on the wide open bank just in case. But after that long spiel.....yes, you're getting screwed.
I had a satisfying fix the other day. Randomly my windows, locks, blinkers and brake lights stopped working. I immediately assumed it was a fuse and found a 60 amp fuse that I figured was the culprit. I replaced it and everything was immediately fixed. Later in the day the entire problem resurfaced. I checked the fuse again and it had blown. So I figured it was a wiring issue. Bad idea, but I started by taking apart the door panel assuming the problem was there, but of course all of the wiring was perfectly intact as it should be because it never gets touched. Next I went under the steering column and noticed a red wire that was exposed and appeared to be burned. I cut out the burnt wire, spliced it back together, wrapped it with electrical tape and replaced the 60 amp fuse again and that fixed the problem. I know little about a car’s electrical system so this was very satisfying. Last week I noticed my car was pulsing when braking. I want to replace the brake pads and noticed that the rotors were worn down so I replaced them as well. Later on I noticed very uneven wearing down of some of the rotors versus others. Is this a problem with the calipers and if so should I replace them or is it another problem altogether?
you laugh, but this is first troubleshooting measure on our airplanes. You should see the pilot's faces when I tell them to do this. Fixes 90% of the issues at the gate.
you either have some calipers stuck or hanging up, or at least a pad hanging up my suspicion would be it has something to do with the labor done during the recent brake pad and rotor replacement, but i am no mechanic ohh, and congrats on your upcoming death in an electrical fire
Alright got a new one... Low oil light came on. I checked it and sure enough it was pretty low but more disturbing the oil was a very dark black. I had it changed 2 months ago and the oil was very clear. I haven't noticed any leaks in my driveway. 2 questions: 1. Where is my oil going? 2. Why is it dark black? tia