Odessa squash are going like gangbusters. Here’s what I picked on Sunday. That’s a 12 x 18 cutting board they are sitting on. Scallop squash are doing well also, but most of my zucchini’s start to rot from the non-stem end when they are 3-4 inches long. Took me three batches to grill up all of these. Also have some striped and some ivory eggplants about ready to harvest. No blossoms on the tomatoes yet.
Moved the bees up to the mountains last weekend hoping to get sourwood honey. My 4 year old went up with me to check on them today. Have 4 more boxes all ready to extract honey from.
Had a shit ton of rain last week and my Boston pickling cucumbers exploded this week. Picked a total of 7 cucumbers, each no less than 5", that were literally only 2" each 2 weeks ago. I've also pulled several sweet shishito peppers and my ghost pepper plant has its first fruit growing right now. Trying my hand at making pickles. I'll know in a few days if I'm any good at it. Will report back... Spoiler: spoilered for size
Anyone grown Okra before? Had some stuff die with the heat and read okra does well in summer so planted some. Within 3 days its already sprouting. Question I have, is do I need to thin it to one stalk per site like I would a root vegitable or can I just let all the sprouts go like a bean or pea type?
First two zucchini of the season. Somehow my mother in law will turn these into bread. Wizardry. Spoiler
Not 100% sure what you're asking, but if I am reading this correctly yes only one plant per spot. What variety of okra? Generally you can crowd them to spacing of one foot but two feet is better. Other okra advice: pick the okra before it reaches full size or it will be like eating tree bark. Depending on the variety want to harvest in the 3-5 inch range. Also, for whatever reason paper wasps love hanging out on okra flowers so take a peek before you start sticking your hands in there Man I miss gardening.
When I do okra I thin it to 1 plant every 3-6 inches. It does fine at that spacing and I've gotten over 20 gallons of it. Also, I second picking it early, best is 4-6 inches long. After that, it will get too woody.
What variety you grow? I've been able to plant the dwarf varieties that close but larger ones it always turned into a mess
Clemson spineless okra of course. But really, it's closest to the common one you would find in the store. Here's the type I grow:
Clemson spineless. To clarify, I planted a few seeds in each hole, and the holes were a foot apart, so now all the seeds sprout and I have 4-5 little plants at each site. If that makes sense and I understand, I should remove all but one sprout at each site.
I usually do a row with a seed every 2 inches. Then thin the weak ones. Here is Clemson's guidance: Planting Okra grows best at temperatures between 75 and 90 °F and should not be planted in the spring before the soil temperature is about 65 °F at the 4-inch depth. The optimum soil temperature for seed germination is 70 to 95 °F. The crop can be grown on all soil types, although sandy loam soils high in organic matter are the most desirable. It is important that the soil be well-drained. Plant in full sun for best productivity. Many gardeners soak the seed before planting to improve germination. This may help; however, seedling death may still occur if the seed is planted in cold soil. Freezing the seed before planting is the best method to improve germination because this breaks the hard seed coat. Plant okra in rows 3 to 6 feet apart with 9 to 12 inches between seeds in the row. Plant okra about ¾ inch deep. Fertilizing A soil test is always the best method of determining the fertilization needs of the crop. Information on soil testing is available in HGIC 1652, Soil Testing. Follow the results of a soil test to maintain a soil pH between 5.8 and 6.5 and optimal fertility levels. If a soil test has not been taken, apply 5-10-15 or 6-12-12 before planting and as a sidedress. Okra tends to respond to a high phosphate fertilizer. The okra plant has a sensitive balance between vegetation (leaf production) and reproduction (pod production). The use of additional nitrogen should be avoided on vigorous plantings until fruiting begins to check plant growth. Two or more sidedressings with a high analysis nitrogen material may be needed, however, depending on rainfall. It is important to supply additional nitrogen late in the season at the time the “forms” or “blooms” are concentrated in the top of the plant. Watering Water the garden to provide a uniform moisture supply to the crop. The garden should be watered in the morning so that the foliage is dry before dark. Water the garden sufficiently to moisten the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Light sprinklings will encourage shallow rooting of the plants. The critical period for moisture is during pod set and pod development.
Thanks. I don’t think I’ve ever even eaten okra before, but decided to try to grow it since I read its supposed to be good with heat and I live in the desert.
It's probably my favorite garden veggie. It really enjoys the 95 F days here in SC. When it comes harvest time, you will have to pick it daily or every 2 days at the latest. They grow fast. Also, use scissors and gloves to pick it.
When you grill it, how long you putting it on there for? I assume it makes it crispy at some point? When we bake it, if we pull it out of the oven to early it’s soft and chewy, which isn’t good
Since my 4 year old had interest in the bees, I got her a real suit. My dad, 4 year old, and I went back up to the mountains to see how the bees were doing. Already had two more boxes mostly full of honey. She had a really good time and hopefully this will turn into a common event. Also, I picked a ton of blueberries from my bushes this morning
Ohh I'm gunna do it I just want some fishing worms for cheap and at my disposal The composting and fertilizer for the garden is just a perfectly acceptable byproduct If I start buying retail containers and trying to sell them, it better pay for a new truck
not too bad of a haul for a humble apartment windowsill plant. supposed to be MOA scotch bonnets... but i'm guessing they were cross-pollenated with habs or something. they taste like bonnets at least, so whatever. starting a bahamian goat seedling to join it when we move into a bigger apartment in a few weeks
Pulled this big fucker of a hornworm off of one of my Marconi peppers this morning. Now I'm going crazy checking all my other pepper plants.
Fuck those things. My neighbors probably thought I was crazy but this is how I used to find them https://www.washingtonpost.com/life...58d90d5d72d_story.html?utm_term=.3b0d41a665f7
I think he might've jumped on only a day or two ago as the plant is very healthy. I wish you guys could've seen my 8 year old daughter wig the fuck out when she accidentally touched it thinking it was a weird pepper.
I always grow 6-7 tomato varieties, and this is my first year growing Black Krim (apparently grown by several posters itt). Just as the first fruit was ripening, I noticed what appears to be late blight symptoms. Grey to brown patches without the leaf yellowing and has spread quickly in a week, now covering ~1/4 of the plant. Spoiler Messaged some friends in extension and they wanted it tested at our state's plant disease clinic ASAP. Had to remove the plant and ship it out today. Harvested the fruits that were on the plant (didn't appear diseased yet) hoping to get a couple to ripen... but what a damn kick in the nuts. I'm lucky that I have another plant growing in a demonstration plot near the campus I work at, but of course that one doesn't look as good as the one from my home garden. Anyone else dealing with any late blight outbreaks in your area? It doesn't overwinter in Minnesota and we haven't had a bad outbreak since 2017 in our area. When it shows up it spreads quickly and is highly destructive (rotting fruit, unlike the other leaf spot diseases). Having never grown Black Krim before, I'm also holding out slight hope that perhaps symptoms of early blight or another disease simply appear different on this cultivar. Experienced growers can let me know if they've ever seen those symptoms on Black Krim, but I'm guessing I'm fucked.
Anyone fuck with jerusalem artichoke? aka Sunchoke? I am interested in planting some perennial vegetables next year and this one seems to produce well but I've never cooked with or eaten it.
Just ordered seeds for my winter garden. Turnips, collards, spinach, black carrots, and mustard greens. rareseeds.com
I was constantly fighting blight when I had a garden. I never did find a way to put an end to it, so I just resorted to occasionally pulling out the dead leaves and picking tomatoes as soon as they were ready.
Extracted from the hives I took the mountains for sourwood honey this weekend. Ended up with around 16 gallons, about half of which is pure sourwood, the rest a mix. Brings my total for the year to over 36 gallons of honey. These are samples of the honey from this year. The first two from June, the 3rd is sourwood, and the last is a mix of sourwood and what was left in the hives from June.
I sell honey bears (~3/4 pint), pints, and quarts. For the regular wildflower honey I get $6, $10, $19 for each and sourwood is $8, $13, and $25.
Too late for a couple of my plants (pretty sure these are what decimated my okra), but for next year. Thanks.
Just placed a "winter" order from the same place. -Japanese red mustard (I've grown something like this before - it's fast, easy, and delicious.) -turnips -few different varieties of radishes -kale I'll need to find some space, I guess.
Anyone got any advice on flowers over winter. I’d like to keep my front beds fairly colorful over winter Need to pull up my petunias anyway in a couple months to lay some mesh down to help with weeds and thinking of replanting for colder weather.