After watching ned's head shitpost his way across this board for years, my guess is you won’t find much.
You could take a sample to a local pool supply store and have them test it maybe? My local one tests water for free.
Home Depot has free water testing kits; but you have to put a sample in a vile then send it away. Then they'll probably spam your mail for the rest of your life.
I really didn't want to go down this path (and am not yet, but want an idea), but has anyone fucked with bridge loans before? Druce
Is there a way to get the rust/iron out of my well water? Sprinkler system is from well and it's staining the travertine around my pool.
So basically every drywall seam on the ceiling in our house is visible depending on the lighting in the room. We've been fighting w/the builder about this and finally they've agreed to re-mud/sand/paint the ceilings in our house. Now the fun part of figuring out where the fuck we're putting the furniture under those seams and whether we're going to stay in a hotel or just say fuck it and carpet our basement instead of paying for a hotel for that week.
really easy to do yourself if you have a drill. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sprinkl...n-and-Fertilization-System-ESX01028/100145314
That's cute, but its designed for shallow well pumps, or what I have typically seen that are lake or pond pumps As it has to be installed on the suction side of the pump What I typically think of as a well, is a deep submersible pump that has no suction side
I tried. Can get your house sprayed with rustoleum once a month. Lot of people in my neighborhood do that instead of using the container I have.
You've got one? It works I guess? How much was it? It's a cool concept for fertilizer if you have that style well
the thing I posted. Yea I have it and it works. not sure how well because I still have to get the rust that was already on the house removed, but it seems to be working because the rust stains aren't getting worse.
Getting old house ready to sell. One of our selling points is matching fairly new appliances. Ran dishwasher one last time and the fucker broke. Yay!
Did this once and the guys didn’t cover anything. I came home and it looked like a dust bomb went off. I would personally cover and tape off any areas you don’t want dust. It’s going to be a mess. Turn off any central air as well until you are done cleaning up. I told my wife I would never go through that again and if we were forced to do a seam I would rather put up a faux beam. Luckily we sold the house before we had to deal with that again.
The warranty company called and apparently the process the builder is using is that one guy comes and covers/tapes off a room, drywall mudder/finisher work behind him, and the painter behind them like an assembly line. Thankfully we don't have to worry about any of the covering etc.
I watched a YouTube so I am now an expert, it needs a new sump. Will probably try to do it myself, likely fuck it up worse and still have to buy a new dishwasher after wasting money on new sump.
Sounds like a good plan. Just because I am curious.... -Like you could see the joints because they weren't flat? Both the vertical and horizontal ones? -What sheen of paint was on the walls?
So I have a “self primed” irrigation well pump. When I start the irrigation the well doesn’t pump shit. The company that winterized our lines likely hit a switch somewhere necessitating their return this summer. What am I missing?
Converting my old t12 florescents to t8 leds. I need to connect 4 wires together. Used wing nuts for the first fixture, but that was a PITA. Anyone know if using these instead will burn my house down? Seems like these used to be unsafe, but now are?
They are completely safe to my knowledge but since I don’t know many things I’m curious to see what others say.
As long as they're UL certified, am I good? I'll sacrifice my dainty fingers and use wingnuts if I have to, but the only warnings I can find stem from the types used in the 80s
I think as long as you are actually competent at the wire work, you probably wont burn your house down
So on the Inspection Addendum is "Secure kitchen counter top." I've never really fucked with counter tops before but this is a picture I drew up of what i'm working with: Do I need to get a couple small L brackets and some screws to tighten this bad boy up? Everything in the picture is laminate including the support leg. If I go this route do I just pre-drill then go in with a wood type screw? Or should i just go the route of using some super strong wood/super glue and try to squeeze it in there where the counter top lifts up? Funshot Residue
Yeah, shitty particleboard is usually under laminate, so I'd probably get a couple small L brackets and some coarse wood screws and you should be good to go. Shouldn't cost you more than $5
Yep those would work. I guess some may recommend pre-drilling but in my experience that type of particleboard doesn't really split, you can probably just screw right into it. A pilot hole definitely wouldn't be detrimental though, if you want to make sure it's fine. If you want to give it some extra support and can pull the countertop away from the support at all, you could throw some wood glue in there before you screw it together.
I converted all 4 of mine and in two of them I had to use these because a couple of the wires were too short. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-S...sh-In-Butt-Splices-10-Pack-30-1342S/202894306 This was about 3-4 years ago and I have had no problems. I used wire nuts for all other connections.
goblue31602 pretty much has you covered. If the "L" brackets will be concealed, by all means. I would hold them in position, mark the holes, and pre-drill with a bit that roughly matches the shank diameter (unthreaded part) of the screws. Glue is a great idea if you can get it in there prior to fastening. I would add that if you want to do this kind of thing regularly, now would be a good time to purchase a pocket hole kit. If it is purely out of necessity, then proceed with brackets.
best smart lock? seems everyone has a schlage, but figured I would ask if there is a better option out there.