I got a Google hub for the kitchen so I can watch youtube tv on it in there. Display is kind of nice for other things as well.
The lady friend asked me to look at houses with her over the weekend. We're a ways from getting a place together but she is tired of renting and has been divorced for over a year now. Wants to get a place in medicine park. My god its the most interesting town I've see in Oklahoma. She's now talking about getting a place built on top of the mountain. For Oklahoma, it's incredible. Right on the edge of the refuge, overlooking the lake, with a view of mount Scott. The town is hella fun too and built from granite cobblestones.
I know nothing about this town so I did a quick google search and found your future home on zillow. The biggest upside to this home is its address: 1 Hellava Dr https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/1-Hellava-Dr-Medicine-Park-OK-73557/300747693_zpid/
https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/172-Forest-Ave-Medicine-Park-OK-73557/294914928_zpid/ this one is only $300 million
so side question. if a house has a guest house on property does that count for the square footage for the price per foot calculation? If so is square footage that is separate from the main house more or less valuable than square footage that is just part of the main house?
Pretty sure it's included. I've seen a few that have a carriage house outback and they lump the main/carriage house sq feet and bed/bath totals together in the listing
I like that it looks like they bought it for $40,000 two years ago, then want to list it for $400,000
I could be a state by state regulation. When I was looking for houses, I felt like at least the bed/bath total was added to the counts on zillow.
Zillow’s psf calculations are based on the county tax assessors public data. The threshold for including the square footage is usually “livable space” i.e. hvac, plumbing, insulation etc... edit: also most counties use AVMs (automated valuation models) based on larger data sets to calculate the assessed values and millage rates. It’s not feasible to individually appraise each dwelling. if the finishes and condition aren’t materially different from the detached dwelling to the primary dwelling the psf value should be consistent for both. This of course assumes were talking about a sales comparison approach to value for a residential property. Certified General appraiser ama...
house was built in the 50s, don’t believe any work has ever been done in the bathroom so we’re about to do a remodel. looking at: -reglaze/restore cast iron tub -restore tile work in the shower -replace fixtures in the tub -replace sink/vanity -repair and paint the walls (plaster I think) -restore the floor tile (subway tile) what’s our order of operations? i imagine restoring the tub is last.
I need to replace my front door handle since my HOA is pretty picky about the style and the previous owner was foreclosed on so the bank had to remove it and replaced it with the wrong type. Can I just buy the exterior handle and have it work with any interior knob/handle or do I need to get a whole set for it to work properly?
I'm in a townhouse community and apparently everyone else has a chrome handle and I'm the only person with a gold knob. It sticks out a little if you're looking for it but I don't see the big deal. The president stopped by months ago and I told him I thought I had the old one(turns out I didn't), forgot about it, and received a notice I'm going to be fined since they'd sent me three warning letters(I didn't receive a single one) so I'm trying to get one and they'll have the maintenance people install it.
Vanity and old tub fixtures out. Repair and paint the walls. Reglaze the tile and have them use the acid they have to do a deep clean on your floor and tiles. Better yet have them reglaze the tiles it looks great. Hardware and vanity back in. I was pleasantly surprised when I reglazed the tub and old tile at a previous house. Really good bang for your buck if you don’t want to gut a bathroom.
My neighbors listed their house for sale on Monday and have had a lot showings last few days. I feel like the guy in Rear Window
I installed a ceiling fan the other day. First look once I powered it up the low setting seemed extremely slow. High seemed to be okay. After having it on for a few minutes I went in to look and while I was watching it on high it slowed almost to a complete stop and then cranked back up to high. Something wrong with my wiring? The fan itself?
YOU'RE A LOOSE CONNECTION! YOU'RE A WIRING ISSUE! But yeah figured that was probably the case. I think I just didn't want to take it down and re-do it. :)
These are now a very dark navy blue. Thank you for the thoughts and prayers during such trying times. Means a lot to Mrs Scott.
For work, I was able to be part of a pilot program for this electrical hazard device. Free for the first year. I’ve had it installed since June of last year. I noticed where it is available for purchase now. https://www.tingfire.com/
So, I'm building a house which has been quite an expensive kick in the nuts (what a time to build, right? ha!). The set up is a main house and then an ADU (accessory dwelling unit (at least in Austin)) which is basically a detached garage with a study on the back side (that could be a gym; it's way bigger than I expected it to feel once standing in it) and an apartment on top to Airbnb or long term rent. This is my first time through the building process, so I'm sure I've been really dumb about a lot of this and spent a tuition amount on mistakes, but I've told the architect and builder from day 1 that I wanted smart locks on: (1) the main house, which has 2 doors under a patio in the courtyard type area that are walked to from the garage, (2) the garage (it has to be detached for code purposes to max out interior square footage in Austin, so I don't want to have to use a key to get in each time), (3) the study on the backside of the garage (I work a bunch and thought it would be nice to have the study be outside the main living area, but I'm attorney, so I need a lock there) and (4) the ADU (for Airbnb/rental purposes). Today when talking to my builder about hardware, he told me his door guy told him we can't put smart locks on those doors because they're multipoint lock doors. Fuck me. As I research these, they sound like they're more expensive doors, mostly used in Europe, but that are used to avoid warping, and for security and tornado/hurricane weather (tornadoes and hurricanes don't happen to be a big issue in Austin). According to my google research, there isn't really a smart lock to put on these. I probably should have researched this shit in my architect's plan, but fuck I still want to flip his desk over. In any event, as I calm down, I'm asking the TMB homeowner brain trust: 1. Has anybody by the grace of God found a smart lock or key pad or other keyless entry system that works for multipoint locking doors that works? 2. Has anybody had any success unfucking a multipoint lock door to function like a 'merican door to work with smart locks? TIA. Looking forward to bitching in here extensively once I move-in 6 weeks from now.
I'm not doubting you, but I spent hours today looking into these bullshit doors and am worried that I need to replace the doors to make this shit work the way I want them to. Folks are ordering $3k smart locks for these doors from Europe that have to be messed with to work for US Internet or something. IDK, I'll just replace the door at that point and I guess leave mean vms for my builder and architect.
Good news, you have nice, new, secure doors. Multipoint installed and adjusted correctly are lifetime units. Bad news, a wireless lock is unlikely to have enough balls to activate/ deactivate the locking system. Worse news, typically the multipoint hardware runs vertically near the latching edge, so even boring a new smart deadbolt is probably not an option. Sorry dude.
I just did it. If you're buying an empty new construction, then it's easier. It's probably unlikely you'll be able to match up both and will probably have to move twice.
I did two months ago, and as long as you think your house will sell fast, it went pretty well. We found a home that had sat for 3 months and were able to negotiate a bit on the price. We had 5 offers in a day on our home, so that moved quickly. The realtor was on it from all angles. She made it as smooth as possible without much difficulty. Had our house sat, it would have been a nightmare. We had painting and a few other cosmetic things to do on the new home, so that sucked trying to do it while living in it, but we got through it. Still plenty to do, but the two living levels are functional. I can see how it would be a mess with so many moving parts, but it can go smoothly at least from my experience.
Yeah, things are kinda of moving fast. I found a place I like that's been sitting for four months, been reduced in price once, so I think I can come under the list price. Worst case, the listed price is OK and something I can handle. Then my neighbor (live in a condo complex) just got her place under contract in 12 days for a really fantastic price. Our units are fairly comparable, so I'm optimistic. That and 2.5% APR got me thinking. It's so crazy it just might work.
Our realtor was in constant communication, pretty much daily, so that eased some concerns. The buyer of our old house didn't have to sell her home, so that gave her some flexibility with closing dates, etc. I fixed a few things that came back on inspection that I didn't have to as a way to say we appreciate her flexibility. It's like how many dominoes is there, with the buyer of your home having to sell theirs, and their buyer having to sell theirs, and on and on. All it takes is one to go wrong and it halts 5 deals, but that's just life. We had a few hiccups but there always is a couple. We weren't really planning to move, but our new home they listed at the end of October and no one in Michigan buys a house from Halloween-New Years so it sat. Feels like we came out in a good spot, and also with an absurd interest rate; It was like 3.2 or something, which was the lowest in years, and obviously it dipped even more. I've had zero regrets and our new house is so much better than our old one they aren't even comparable. Good luck!
bRamonceTaylor Funshot Residue With your (the customer's) heavy input up front about having smart locks on all those doors, shouldn't the builder/architect act in good faith and inform that, "well hey - the doors I have designed/ordered won't be compatible with all the US smart locks youll find." * *builder may not have known his fancy multipoint lock doors aren't compatible with the everyday Ring/Nest/Yale/etc US options, but there would seem to be some middle ground. You're a lawyer, so you'll get it done surely.
If I were in bRamonceTaylor s shoes, I'd look back for a paper trail as to my wishes for the smart hardware. Assuming he paid fees to both the builder and the architect, somebody dropped the ball. I'd want to know who specified the doors (likely architect), what was specified on the plans, and who ordered the units (likely builder). I don't think it is fair for the buyer to look at the plans and be able to distinguish hardware options from door notes. On high dollar plans, the hardware schedule is a separate document. If that exists, and he didn't catch it, he may be out of luck. If there is no finish schedule for door hardware, and he has an email from a responsible party noting his wishes, he may have a leg to stand on.