Lawn care?

Discussion in 'The Mainboard' started by hudson, Apr 17, 2015.

  1. dirtybert

    dirtybert Well-Known Member

    I’ve got the Stihl AK series. Blower has been great. Trimmer had to be serviced under warranty. Gears in the head melted. Apparently they’ve since switched to metal gears instead of plastic. Haven’t had any issues since. Yard is just shy of quarter acre. Can usually make it on one battery. Batteries are interchangeable throughout the AK series. Trimmer and blower each come with a battery so you end up with tow batteries and two chargers.
     
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  2. tmank87

    tmank87 Well-Known Member

    I picked up an ego multi head to see if it could effectively replace my Stihl Kombi system. Definitely less power, but I would say more than adequate for home use. Especially if you maintain your edges/turf frequently.

    I also picked up their 600 CFM blower. Definitely a beast and puts my Milwaukee cordless to shame. Not a replacement for heavy duty use and my Stihl BR600 but packs a punch for light/medium duty. Good battery life to boot.

    Would recommend.
     
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  3. Upton^2

    Upton^2 blocked just a park away, but I can't really say
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    Moving into a place who's yard was nonexistent and then was turned into mud/soil after a whole remodel. I am in North Carolina. Do we like Zoysia? Think Bermuda can make it work with this weather getting so hot now?
     
  4. tmank87

    tmank87 Well-Known Member

    I'm in NC. Palisades Zoysia. Great turf.

    Would consider Bermuda for sure if shade isn't an issue. Latitude 36, Tifgrand or Tahoma 31.

    Bermuda thrives in warm weather. Hotter the better. Only struggle would be getting it established. If you have irrigation, easy. Once established, it's nearly indestructible.
     
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  5. Tricky Gator

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    Yard is mostly st Augustine. Throughout the summer I have a decently sized spot where various weeds are coming in. Is there a type of weed control that’s safe to use this time of year or will it just burn the shit out of the grass?
     
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  6. Upton^2

    Upton^2 blocked just a park away, but I can't really say
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    Awesome, thank you. Thoughts on centipede? I have some pretty big trees in front and back yard that will provide a lot of shade, so bermuda may not be an option
     
  7. tmank87

    tmank87 Well-Known Member

    I personally don't love the look of Centipede aesthetically. I know it's very low maintenance. Just mow and water. Very little Nitrogen requirement etc. I have no personal experience.

    Palisades zoysia is pretty shade tolerant. I have two large oaks out front.

    Edit: pic from about 1 month ago. Will snap one post mow tonight since we've been much hotter and gotten rain. It's thriving.
     

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  8. tmank87

    tmank87 Well-Known Member

    Certainty or Celsius depending on type of weed.
     
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  9. Russellin4885

    Russellin4885 Well-Known Member
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    Second Zoysia in NC. Mine is going crazy right now with the heat, I do have irrigation though so obviously that's a big help.
     
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  10. Det. Frank Bullitt

    Det. Frank Bullitt God Bless Texas
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    Put down Heritage G yesterday, to fight what is likely Take All Patch/Take All Root Rot on St Augustine. Yellowing blades that will eventually lead to full death of the lawn. Def not a fun thought.

    I think its from excess moisture/heat. I hope I'm right because each treatment is roughly $25. I'm due for a second one (the other half of the bag) in 30 days.
     
  11. tmank87

    tmank87 Well-Known Member

    Might I suggest a liquid application instead of granular. Take a look at propiconozole and azoxystrobin. Those are the AI. Rotate every 14-28 days. Much cheaper per application.

    Just need a decent backpack sprayer.
     
  12. Det. Frank Bullitt

    Det. Frank Bullitt God Bless Texas
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    Thanks.

    Why liquid?

    Azoxystrobin is the (only) AI in Heritage G, which is rated as the best treatment per my state's ag extension office, but I have looked at Myclobutanil in the form of Fertilome F Stop, and a couple others.

    Is there a trade name for the mix you shared?

    I know I need to rotate over the long term for resistance consideration, I guess outside of class 11. I need to do more reading on that.

    I also have peat moss I'm going to put down to reduce acidity (which, used to be the top recommendation from the Ag office, such advice is supplanted by the azoxystrobin treatment recommendation).
     
  13. tmank87

    tmank87 Well-Known Member

    I was thinking Headway G which is a mixture of Azoxy and Prop, Heritage is just azoxy. Can also consider Chlorothananil (Daconil) which is a contact fungicide. Just check it's safe on SA.

    Typically the uptake of liquid treatments is more efficient and easier for the plant. Not always case for fungicides due to their need to also get to soil.

    Aside from the cost per application being much lower, I can also be much more precise with my treatments with my sprayer calibrated. Always feels like a guessing game for me when using a spreader. Also, no need to water in.

    I use an entire liquid program though; Nitrogen, Micros, Herbicides, PGR, Fungicides, Humic etc.

    I will typically buy Azoxy and Prop from guys who break it down on thelawnforum.com. The doses are low and that way I don't have to shell out $100+ for product that I could hardly use in a lifetime.

    https://www.domyown.com/azoxy-2sc-select-p-15183.html

    https://www.domyown.com/propiconazo...evPYi8YGkJX1xeaqZxhoC6CoQAvD_BwE&sub_id=16568
     
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  14. ThirstyAltarBoy

    ThirstyAltarBoy Well-Known Member
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    So I need some help with what I am pretty sure is Grey Leaf Spot and I have lost large patches of grass (St. Augustine, Central Florida). I applied Scott’s DiseaseEx about a month ago. I’m thinking I need to do another application to keep things under control. Any recommendations on what to apply?
     

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  15. Tarpon Nole

    Tarpon Nole Well-Known Member
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    this is what I had a while back. You can scroll up and see what I used that worked

    do not use pesticide or any sort of fertilizer while it’s going on. I learned the hard way
     
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  16. ThirstyAltarBoy

    ThirstyAltarBoy Well-Known Member
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    Well shit. I did a light fertilizer last week and a pesticide last month.

    I’ll probably put down the fungicide spray you recommended this weekend since I already did the Scotts Disease Ex.
     
  17. DayDomination

    DayDomination Down to clown at Truffoni's
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    I got a lot of trees. I gave up. Inside is nice.
     
  18. b0ne5

    b0ne5 Well-Known Member
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    i have 18 trees in my backyard and 10 in my front yard. I have to water my lawn for 2-3 hours a day. Shit sucks. Green af tho.
     
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  19. The Hebrew Husker

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    Just went to the grass store to buy some seed for overseeding, I ended up getting “HeatWave” which appears to be a thinner fescue. The dude gave me a 25lb bag which seems like way too much.

    Now that I’m home I’m starting to wonder if I should return this, and opt for more of a mix of fescue and bluegrass.

    Any opinions on the grass type? I’m trying to avoid the thick blades of fescue, but the stuff they had growing looked pretty thin.
     
  20. Det. Frank Bullitt

    Det. Frank Bullitt God Bless Texas
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    the weight correspond to an application rate and an approximate sq ft.

    Is the sq ft (printed on the bottom corner, normally) wrong for your needs?

    I don't know cold season grasses, so I'll let someone else speak to that.
     
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  21. The Hebrew Husker

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    Actually after further review the size of the bag may be close. A little big, but whatever. Just now have to decide if I want to do more of a blue grass heavy mix.
     
  22. Lucky24Seven

    Lucky24Seven Ain't nothing slick to a can of oil
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    Bluegrass will take a little over a year or so to establish itself. I personally like to overseed with a Blue / Rye mixture. Will look like shit for the first few mows of the spring because you’ll end up breaking off the seed heads and they’ll yellow out, but it’s only for a short while, then over time the Kentucky Blue will become the dominate grass in the yard.
     
  23. The Hebrew Husker

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    That sounds good. I did blue grass last year for my overseed. The only reason I considered some “Heatwave” fescue is because I have a couple spots in my back yard that are getting smoked by the sun. That said it’s also been extremely hot for this area since Memorial Day and we’re maybe 10 inches below the normal on rainfall, so it could just be that. Only my second summer owning a house.
     
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  24. two

    two Hello
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    914CA152-433A-4205-A17B-06A4F909970B.jpeg


    anyone know what kind of plant this is? Early guess is a giant dandelion
     
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  25. The Hebrew Husker

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    Is there a general rule on how much water to put down after granular applications?

    Had to put down an emergency application of grub killer yesterday, ran my sprinklers for probably 15 minutes after applying. Then it rained overnight (probably 0.10-0.20 inches if that).

    Noticed this morning the granules are still visible. Should I water more? Are they supposed to fully dissolve? I’ve never thought about that.
     
  26. infected donkey

    infected donkey Arkansas Razorbacks
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    I'd say, it should be fine.
     
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  27. BrickTamland

    BrickTamland You're not Ron...
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    Any tips for dealing with ground bees? They’re small and aggressive, not sure if they’re bees or yellowjackets but I’m leaning towards killing them with fire regardless.
     
  28. The Hebrew Husker

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    Figured so, but I’ve never actually went back and looked so wasn’t sure if having some granules undissolved was normal or not.

    Found a couple spots along my sidewalk where grubs were getting to so wanted to make sure those things are RIP.
     
  29. infected donkey

    infected donkey Arkansas Razorbacks
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    Every time I've applied I never watered but timed it before some rain (<0.25") and it was effective in pushing the moles to others yards besides mine w/in a week or so. Don't have to worry about them in my current house as bedrock is <2ft below soil surface.
     
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  30. The Hebrew Husker

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    I think the stretch along my sidewalk is extra fried/weak because of the heat coming off the cement. That’s where a couple of these grubs went to work, I assume it was pretty easy for them to get through the root.

    Was only a couple grubs so hopefully easily contained.
     
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  31. bigred77

    bigred77 Well-Known Member
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  32. infected donkey

    infected donkey Arkansas Razorbacks
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    Yea concrete will elevate temp's of the surrounding soil around it. I've had army worms come in strong this year which I didn't have last year.
     
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  33. Lucky24Seven

    Lucky24Seven Ain't nothing slick to a can of oil
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    Coupled with the fact you have grubs that have been munching on your grass roots, the grass will be extra weak and stress out more than normal.
     
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  34. Where Eagles Dare

    Where Eagles Dare The Specialist Show On Earth
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    Anyone have suggestions on laying top dressing? Brands?

    I just killed off all the crab grass and plan to plant some tall fescue here in a few weeks. I want to rent an core aerator, then seed, and lay top soil over the top of it all. What's the best way to apply top dressing? Do I need to buy a drop spreader? I assume it's too thick for my broadcast spreader
     
  35. Jake Scott

    Jake Scott Well-Known Member
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    I’m thinking about lighting my entire front yard on fire. That’s how things are going. Moved in June, didn’t realize the previous owner did absolutely nothing to the yard in early spring. It’s a disaster.
     
  36. Lucky24Seven

    Lucky24Seven Ain't nothing slick to a can of oil
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    There is a certain spec of sand you want to use. Can’t remember off the top of my head. I’ll look at some stuff later this evening. Basically it needs to be angular enough so it doesn’t compact into a hard layer.
     
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  37. The Hebrew Husker

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    I saw today while at the grass/lawn store they were selling that stuff you put on baseball infields after it rains as an alternative to peat moss. Was kind of surprised to see that.
     
  38. racer

    racer Yuma, where I work in software.
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    Should I rent a plug aerator and do it myself or just pay the extra $100 to have it done?
     
  39. bigred77

    bigred77 Well-Known Member
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    buy_dont_lease
     
  40. buy_dont_lease

    buy_dont_lease Ha ha ha. What a story, Mark.
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    Get the best of both worlds. Buy the aerator but pay someone else to use it.
     
  41. The Hebrew Husker

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    How much to rent? I had my yard done by a service that was 65 bucks, I think it was maybe 50ish to rent one so figured for 15 bucks extra why not just have it done and not worry about transporting it.

    Next fall my friend may split the rental fee and just do both of our yards. He has a truck so it’ll be easier for me to move it.
     
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  42. racer

    racer Yuma, where I work in software.
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    $80ish plus probably $20-40 in seed. $160-200 to get it done. If it’s a pain in the ass even a little bit I’ll farm it out.
     
  43. Tarpon Nole

    Tarpon Nole Well-Known Member
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    Update- I'd say I have about 60% of a healthy yard again. I hit it a few more times with anti fungal but haven't done anything else since this happened. What should I do this fall and when. I'm in Tampa and it's still Augustine. It's been wet and hot last few months

    Also, since I imagine I will have some big swaths of empty spots where it won't get a chance to fill in, should I overseed withe something? Or not worth it?
     
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  44. Det. Frank Bullitt

    Det. Frank Bullitt God Bless Texas
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  45. Where Eagles Dare

    Where Eagles Dare The Specialist Show On Earth
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    Gonna pay some company $700 to aerate, seed, fertilizer, organic compost top soil then seed. About 3,500 Sq feet.

    Was debating doing it my self but it would only be a few hundred saved, I'd save a day and having to put a 250# aerator in an SUV myself... And tbqh the top soil they sell at lowes/HD seems to be pure shit from reviews.

    Hoping to have a pristine tall fescue lawn this fall
     
  46. racer

    racer Yuma, where I work in software.
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    Is there such a thing as too much overseeding in the fall? I usually apply seed more densely than the packaging suggests, but it never seems to grow in thick enough. Having plug aerating and ovverseeding done in a few weeks and thinking about overseeding again myself a few weeks later.
     
  47. Where Eagles Dare

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  48. Brewtus

    Brewtus Got dat juice
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    I just paid about $350 to triple pass aerate and overseed for about 7,500 sq feet (don't actually know as most my lot is wooded. I then fertilized with Milorganite.

    Not surprising, but Milorganite smells like a portapotty.

    Excited to see how the yard looks in the spring. Haven't done much at all since I moved in about a year ago and we had twins in December. So, looking forward to learn about yard management for next year.
     
    #1348 Brewtus, Sep 16, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2020
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  49. The Hebrew Husker

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    I just put down some Milogranite for the first time on Labor Day, it then rained consistently all last week. My yard has greened up a bunch and now is more of a dark green too. Haven’t mowed for almost two weeks due to over seeding, but going to get to it tomorrow. Actually excited to see how it looks freshly mowed.
     
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  50. bigred77

    bigred77 Well-Known Member
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    This seeding every year thing blows my mind
    /s/
    Stt Augustine life