Once all the water is out? Yes. Pull the valve and wash out the valve in a sink if there’s sediment in it. Half empty WH drain clogged with the valve held open by sediment? Not ideal. Connect flexes. Makes an air lock so water drains slower. Disconnect garden hose from drain. Use a bucket to catch drips as you poke at the sediment holding the valve open. Get valve to close. Start draining process over again. If your WH is in area that rust colored water won’t hurt anything, just pull the valve and let it drain. The 3/4” opening will drain a lot faster than the 3/8” opening in the valve. No issue of clogging from sediment either.
my water heater is supperrrr old. hoping it kicks the bucket before my home warranty expires in June.
Apparently this couple does this frequently in Amarillo. Give cash offers but demand the world from the sellers then back out if not given the world. I’m trying to figure out their angle because that’s not a market I’d want to be grabbing property to flip.
I need a new automatic pool cleaner. We had the shark and it worked well for a couple years. Just looked online and cleaners range from $400-$1,200. Any suggestions? Pool goes about 8 feet deep.
https://marinapoolspaandpatio.com/p...-advertised-map-pricing-for-this-item-is-899/ This is a good store too. They'll hook you up with a great price and ship to you.
Do you leave this in the pool all the time? Obviously you take it out to clean the basket. I don't have a (functioning) main drain in my pool. I have only used one that used the suction from the wall. This is run purely off electricity?
I do leave it in the pool. Arguably I should take it out, but I put it on a smart outlet that turns on and off at set times and put the robot in automation mode to wake up when the power comes on. It'll probably create more wear on the parts long term by leaving it in, but I am willing to pay that price for convenience. Yes, runs purely off electricity. And it scrubs your walls and waterline so you don't need to brush nearly as often. Note that you'll need power within a certain distance of your pool.
I purchased this one from Amazon. No local places had them in stock (I only tried 2). I don't think they sell the one you have any more. Or they do and just rebranded it to charge more money.
did you call Marina Pool and Spa? I highly recommend you call them and ask for the Active20 or Dolphin S200 (they are the same thing and cost the same, one is just a white labeled version). The one you purchased is fine, but if you call Marina you can get the dual basket with the finer interior filter added. And you may pay less. It's also better to buy from a store than from Amazon for warranty purposes.
Also, the Triton doesn't have the swivel cord so it may get twisted up a bit more depending on your pool. It's a very very similar robot, though, otherwise.
Spent the afternoon draining and cleaning the tank. The water flow was always pretty good so I don’t think there was any blockage, but I only got about a cup of sediment out. I don’t really feel comfortable messing with valve replacement at the moment so this likely won’t lead to getting better hot water back.
I’ve got a company coming out for an estimate on Friday. It’s an 18 year old standard 40 gallon tank so it’s probably time to just do it anyways.
I feel like that’s not enough to impact performance of the unit though. I don’t know shit about thermodynamics or whatever though.
Google the model they recommend. If everything’s location are the same as the old water heater, you can install if their price is over the top.
I’m getting quotes for tank and tankless. If we go with just a replacement tank then I will look into doing it myself.
Tankless is best with a circulation pump. Adds piping and electrical, but having instantly hot water is nice.
Congrats on the sex handyman. Hurry and take advantage because the window of appreciation closes fast.
My stupid fucking house is playing the hits. During the semiannual system inspection, the HVAC tech shows me where rodents decided to nest in the condenser and chew through a bunch of shit. “Last time I seen one like this we had to replace the whole unit.”
It’s too late. It just got delivered. Thanks for your help. It works great so far. And it has the swivel. The two pool companies that had it I’m not a big fan of the owners/had bad experiences.
I’ve noticed this too lately. I have to turn the shower handle further to the hot side than usual. Mines electric. anyone got suggestions? It’s in a weird spot in our laundry room. In the corner of one of the counters. It’s a small one. At least it’s smaller than I remember having as a kid. I can’t believe it says it’s almost $600/year to run.
We just signed a purchase agreement for a new build. Breaking ground in April. Anyone have advice for a first time builder? Suggestions, things to ask during design phase, etc.?
I posted this a while back, and have built a(nother) house in the meantime. I'll see if there's anything I want to add. Who is the builder, if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks man. Pulte Homes is our builder. We are meeting for our first design appointment in a few weeks. I appreciate the notes.
Gotcha, well congrats! I don't know a ton about them but that's exciting. A few things I'd add in our 2nd build -It may have been our first builder (Ryan Homes) but carpet/flooring seems to be a step above with some builders. Our new carpet is holding up MUCH better. -If you plan on having a basement and finishing it, consider adding a few windows down there. Looking back, we wish we would have added a few more to introduce more natural light down there. We have 2, but would have liked more. -Find a reputable home inspector to do a pre-drywall inspection as well as a pre-closing inspection. The pre-drywall inspection is the only time you'll ever have (unless something goes catastrophically wrong) to inspect the guts of your house before it all gets closed up with drywall. People make mistakes, and sometimes mistakes aren't caught. Our inspector found a few minor things that could have become major had we not gotten inspections. Your builder SHOULD have a clause that essentially says "While we don't think you need one, you are allowed to hire your own inspector, and we're not required to fix what they find." If they find anything egregious, I'm sure your builder will fix those things. -Try to stay on the best terms you can with your construction manager, as they're the ones responsible for your build. Ours (for both of our builds) have been absolutely fantastic, but I also did my best not to weigh them down with stupid requests or tons of phone calls. If they're not good, then it may be best to stay on top of them and ensure things get fixed in an appropriate manner. -Ask if they will give you a full list of their options. Our first builder (Ryan) protected their options list like it was Fort Knox. I don't know why considering we were trying to spend more. Our 2nd builder (M/I) gave us a 30 page printout of every option they offer which caused my wife to shake out the couch cushions for more money to add more things. But really, we found some really nice and inexpensive additions that made a big difference. For instance, we upgraded the handrails on the stairs/loft for like $200, and they are way more elegant. We also changed to 5-1/4" trim in the entire house for a ton less than we would have to pay to do it later. -If you have a 2 story great room or entryway, seriously consider the upgrade to paint your interior walls in a non-white color. Most builders give you an option to paint the house a color from a list they have, see if there are any colors that will be good for the 2 story areas because that stuff is a bitch to do later. We also added crown moulding to the 2 story areas (as well as a ton of 1 story areas) because again, doing that later would be a bitch. It all depends on your preferences though, some of this stuff may not matter to you, to each their own.
In regards to lighting if you are doing a bunch of recessed or can lights, get regular light fixtures and then buy replacement LED bulbs. LED fixtures fail and when that happens, replacement is the only option. Down the road you will have a bunch of mismatched fixtures throughout the house as you can not find the exact replacement as product lines change. You can buy LED replacement bulbs in pretty much any style, brightness, & hue now. If they are centerpiece lights/fixtures, go ahead and spend on the LED. *have never built a house, this applies for all scenarios.
Pulte is pretty respectable amongst Midwest builders, they at least put pretty good finishes on for trim, doors, etc. I don't believe Pulte gives shit for the AV allowance, so be prepared to spend alot of money in that section of the home buying process. Most builders will give you like 2 cable outlets and call it a day for AV, with the new IOT needs, you will need a lot more. I'd recommend hard wiring every smart tv. Expect AV, Electrical, and Lighting to add $10k min to your home price after the structural phase I forget where you live, are you building in Delware county with them? They have some really nice floorplans in the Columbus market Also expect delays, I'm building now and my home was suppossed to be done in December its now looking like May
Damn and I thought our 2 week delay was bad. Plumbing, concrete, windows, framing, and cabinets were all scheduling nightmares for our project manager because of covid issues. We're still missing a trim piece in the top peak of the front of our house.
We waited 3 months for windows (black windows are hard to get apparently), now we are being told we have a 2 month delay on cabinets. Which is ridiculous, our builder clearly didn't order them at the beggining of the process, they just waited until they were ready for cabinets and were like ohh shit