Baron piggybacking off this my Dad immediately said $20k when I asked him what he thought. He does not have the math to back it up but works with condos frequently. In this situation she will own it right? So her property value increases with it.
My bad, my bad! I’ll take one tonight. I actually talked to the guy the other day. He was trying to tell me how he measured and thought he left a couple of inches between the property line but didn’t want to go too short and have it dump onto the fence. He then told me if I notice any drainage issues to let him know he could dig a French drain type thing. Then proceeded to show me one he “built” on the other side of his house which was just a PVC pipe with a few holes drilled into it then just laid on top of his grass.
That would have made more sense if it wasn’t a couple of inches over the fence lol The whole time I was just kind of nodding my head because he was talking to me 100mph in a super thick accent and I wasn’t really in the mood to deal with it.
I want a follow up on the shed paint too, can you ask about that the next time you’re over there? Maybe volunteer to finish painting it if he agrees to install a French drain pipe before the water ends up in your basement
He also said it shouldn’t be an issue with the water because there’s a “slope”. Can’t wait to find out!
Yeah I believe the driveway extends along the side of his house into his backyard where that’s parked. They mow like once every 3-4 weeks though so not sure parking on grass would deter him.
Hmm so we've been in escrow two weeks and are all set to clear all contingencies (financing, appraisal, inspection) by Monday. Sellers' agent just said they got an all-cash offer with no contingencies and closing in 21 days 3% above where we are. My agent passed along the news and said "will call you later, at a conference all day." Can he break our offer and just go with the other offer or does he have to respect the contract? If he can just decline our offer now and go with him, I don't really understand what a contract is
First I would probably tell your realtor to leave his conference and call you immediately. Him putting you off like that is kind of ridiculous to me No idea on the binding contract. Sorry if it's possible for them to back out, that's awful
I think they can probably find a way out of it but I don’t know how those contracts work. You should probably start thinking about a figure they can pay you to walk.
Bedroom ceiling fan has started to die on me. Was here when I bought my place, easily 15 years old give or take based on it's design. Any suggestions for a 52"-54" replacement?
i imagine its state by state in minnesota they would not be able to break the contract without enormous concessions that would make it not worth
Those contingencies listed are separate from the option, right? If the option has passed, then I think they're stuck, although that means you won't get anything in the post-inspection negotiations. From a practical matter, litigation would probably take forever, but it probably means they can't sell, either. You may be in a situation where you could offer to take 2% of that 3% to walk away, which may or may not be appealing
Thanks - I found a couple pages like this that essentially says in California if buyers clear all contingencies, Sellers are pretty much stuck. We're prepared to do that today and our deadline is Monday, so sounds like he just won't accept any of our credit asks for repairs/remediation from the inspections, but I don't think that's a deal breaker on our side. I really don't want to have to match their number, and if he asks me what it would cost to walk away my answer would be AT LEAST the difference in our offers. https://schorr-law.com/when-can-a-seller-back-out-of-escrow/
Carport Update: So the carport is not "sellable" per se from talking to the property mgmt company, however this carport spot can be re-assigned to the neighbor via a personal agreement. The carport is not tied to the actual property, only assigned to the property by the # above the spot. So the lady/neighbor said I just need to agree in writing that the spot will be re-assigned to her condo and then we can discuss a price under the table and give me cash for the spot. I still have no idea what asking should be. She tossed out $3k as an example, not saying she was paying that, but she at least knows it'll be in the thousands I assume.
What are things I need to do/not do in a contract with a builder to gut a house? I have a decent but hard budget and an old ass house so I'll need to build-in some money for contingencies because problems are definitely going to arise. I've never done this before.
I would defer to Funshot Residue as he is probably a better resource to check with, but I would start interviewing GC's and go from there. Ask for references and potentially ask any architects you may meet with in the design stage who they are fans of.
Yes, meeting with him in a week to start nailing stuff down. Have two references for him -- both of whom I trust -- but he's also basically the only one that can even get started in the next 8 months, so it's kinda him by default.
That is the equivalent of $10-12.50 per month. Is that all the more you could tent it for? That seems ridiculously low.
I contacted a apartment complex near by and they rent car ports for $25 a month. How are you valuating this? I'm not doubting you, just seeing how you are figuring this out. Edit: And to be honest, I don't' care at this point its really just extra money I wasn't expecting, but I also don't want to lowball myself it I realistically could get more.
Gotcha. Let me get this kid to sleep and I'll hit you up later. Apologies in advance if that turns into tomorrow.
I gave you the formula earlier. 25 * 12 = 300 300 / .04 = $7500 300 / .05 = $6000 So using a discount rate of 4%-5% values it at $6000-7500. That is your ballpark valuation if rent is $25/month.
Yea I know you did. I don’t get the discount rate part and the 300 number you are multiplying. I’m not a finance guy. Or I’m just an idiot lol.
When I look at the math, the 4% discount actually makes the $300 much more expensive. It’s not that great of a discount IMO
getting quotes so far to bring my fence up to code for the new pool Fence guy 1: Unfortunately your job is too small for my company because we have a 3k minimum and your job should cost around 1k. Fence guy 2: I'll do the job for $3,200 Fence guy 3: I'll do the job for $1,500. Part of me wants to find a 4th guy and the other part just says fuck it, hire guy #3.
Is that a removable pool fence or redoing an existing one? If the former, I think ours was only like $800 (but didn't encircle the pool)
Anybody deal with seismic retrofits? I’ve contacted a couple of contractors and gotten wildly varying estimates, but as far as I can tell they all involve using plywood to create sheer walls…because my house which has made it 100 years without sliding off its foundation isn’t going to slide down the hill we’re on when the big one hits because plywood.
Yes, that’s how it works (from an engineering perspective). Very glad I don’t work in high a high seismic area.
It seems pretty profitable. Luckily we won a lottery for a grant so that will help with the expense, but my dreams of a new deck are in hold indefinitely. Appreciate the confirmation that the sheer walls aren’t a scam. If you don’t mind me asking, what field are you in? (If finance or medicine, please just don’t answer- I want to continue believing)
DIY it. Use these Simpson seismic retrofit plates and start here https://www.strongtie.com/solutions/seismic
Aptos, not sure if you felt it where you are but like two weeks back we had some tremors. I thought a truck hit the back of my house and held onto my chair for dear life- I am def taking it seriously, I just have a hard time believing sheer walls are going to save us from the big one. On the bright side, where we are, most of the houses including ours are built on bedrock. Was told our old neighborhood in the Berkeley flats is not and thus will do much worse.
Shear wall, not sheer wall. Hayward is a strike-slip fault, there'll be a lot of lateral stress when it goes. If your walls aren't protected against shear forces, they can rack and buckle. Bedrock will mitigate wobble, but you're close enough to the fault that an initial shock will be pretty bad Those Simpson brackets will help keep the structure from hopping off the foundation - saw a lot of that in the Loma Prieta quake in 1989. Not sure how much they help keep the walls themselves from racking. Plywood or steel reinforcement is probably the best way to go. Not a structural engineer, just been married to one for nearly 30 years Edit: wife says shear walls are still likely to rack in a big quake, but they won't collapse. "It's about saving your life"