Is it better to not bag the grass or bag the grass before you fertilize the lawn? I know it's better to not bag normally, but right before fertilizing not sure?
Make sure the lawn is moist when applying the fertilizer. Also, during this time of year dont forget to raise the level of the mower to a higher setting so it doesnt cut as short because the sun will burn up the roots.
I've always done the bag before fertilize just because it means that more of the fertilizer can make it to the soil instead of maybe getting caught up in the grass clippings. No idea if that's true science or whatever, but it made sense when I heard it.
I'm terrible at fixing my lawn. the back yard is hazardous to ankles. I've tried to over-seed, re-seed, seed, all-in-one seed/fertilizer/soil, all to no avail.
Got this off the Scotts website "Some folks bag their grass clippings for aesthetic reasons or to keep the clippings from being tracked into the house. In most cases, following mowing guidelines will avoid clumps that detract from a lawn's appearance and will keep the clippings small enough to filter down into the lawn." I guess that does make sense. If it's low maybe it doesn't matter, but on the first actual mow of the spring the grass was always high so of course I bagged it, then fertilized, then just regular maintenance so I didn't need to bag it again.
I put bertwing 's mom on a leash and have her fertilize my lawn au naturale...you won't find a better product on a shelf
U wanna bag clippings if u live in area with shitty soil. When I lived in north Alt I would bag every other mow because of the shitty clay soil. Now I live in Jax, Fl and this shit doesn't even need to be aerated even if you mulch the clippings every time. If you do have shitty soil and you mulch every time what can happen is your root system will lack getting the proper nutrients (fert/water/sun). This is because the build up of thatch will act like a sponge and absorb all the nutrients before it makes it to the root zone. Not to brag, but this is my backyard ;)
Ok, so I guess there was a little truthy science behind it. I just went along with it because that shit would clump up if it was too high and it looked like it might stop shit from reaching the soil. No clue what type of actual soil we had though.
I'm a little pissed because I was going to fertilize Wednesday after work to get it in right before the big snow we just got. I ended up working until well after dark. Nothing better than fertilizing right before a big spring snow.
I'm overfeeding this weekend. I've done a solid amount of research. Step 1 is to control weeds. I hired a company to come spray pre and post emergent. Step 2- aerate ore rake your lawn to get rid of thatch and to loosen the soil. This is important so that the seeds reach the soil. If seeds don't make contact with soil, they won't germinate. Aka grow. Step 3- fertilize. I'm using Milorgranite. "They" say it's phenomenal. Spread a thin layer on top. Step 3- seed according to your instructions. Step 4- use your sprinkler enough to where the ground is always moist. For about 2 weeks. Step 5- raise the mower height to make sure weeds die TheChad I'm confused about the sprinkler deal. I've read different things. What's your suggestion? I want your yard. It is perfect.
I have arrived. Generally speaking, if your yard needs extra fertilization, it's better to not bag. If your yard doesn't (ahem, raises hand) you can bag it and it will look nicer. Also, vary your mowing pattern in a rotation. I go horizontal, diagonal left, vertical, diagonal right, outside-in and repeat.
I did that one year, and it didn't seem to help. Will try again this year. a lawn company wanted to charge me $750 to seed and fertilize + 100 to aerate. it seemed like a lot of money, and they of course would not guarantee anything (how do we know you are watering it?). So I might just do all that myself
Did this early in the year before I reseeded and fertilized and it did wonders. Hell of a workout too.
Seed? What type of grass do u have? Fescue? Rye? You generally want to water from 5 to 7 in the morning. You don't want to water late at night...if you do the water that doesn't make it down to the roots and just sits on top of the grass all night will not have the sun to help it evaporate. If the water that doesn't make it to your root system in just sits on the grass overnight you can get serious fungus problems...aka brown patch, fairy ring even slime mold. I water mine at 6 AM twice a week for 25 minutes. If it gets too hot and dry the summer I'll bump it up to three times
I have a Toro and I like it. This is what I have, but its older. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Toro-Per...atton-Engine-20334/100659631?N=5yc1vZc5arZ1i9
They love to eat grubs, mole crickets and earth worms. If u cut back on their food source they may go elsewhere. Put out some GrubEx and see what happens.
Who was the TMBer that was planning on starting a lawn painting business? If memory serves, he was a Nole (which makes sense, given how dumb the idea is LMBO).
Fescue and a few large spots of Bermuda that isn't spreading as much as it theoretically should. how much water does 25 minutes give you? Bought some Jonathan Grass black beauty.
The lot is 1/2 acre. That includes a big house, 3 car garage, 80' driveway, and a 500 sq ft garden. All told, probably about 1/4 acre. Push mower is the only thing I can use, though. A rider would not work in my situation.
Thanks, but no thanks. That looks like it has about an 18" blade which is way too small. Also, I like to make noise. Also, I'm not fucking Amish.
That's watering practices for standard established turf, if you got bare areas I would bump it up a little more. If you add Riversand or play sand in the bare areas about a quarter inch thick, that Bermuda grass will run to those areas as the sand heats up in the summer and the bare areas will fill in a lot faster
You can go with traps...but a good home remedy is mint. To prove they are the scum of the fucking earth, moles can't stand mint. Get some mint stems and leaves and blend them up with just enough water to make a slurry of mint. Add that to a large pot of boiling water and simmer it for about to 20-30 minutes. Then take that and pour it into the molehills and they will go away.
Just aerated my entire back yard. Raked it twice. Walked over every inch to make sure the seeds were making contact with the lawn. I tilled using this: Been a while since I've been this tired. Think I need to go get some top just to make sure? Hope it was all wotrh it.
yea. The ground was really soft, so I thought I'd be able to get it done quickly. What was I thinkin?
My parents had like these shoe spikes they came across somewhere. So one year I walked toe to toe the entire lawn.
I used that as well to till some of my front yard for when I bought some sod last year. Helluva workout. Im digging up about half my backyard next month. Renting a tiller from Home Depot for $50 for the day. Hope to get 3 pallets and lay some new sod down.
this thread. every year its something else for me. My front yard (bermuda) is different grass from my backyard (shade fescue mix) so its always an adventure. This year my front lawn has been completely taken over by this weed with a white tip. It's basically a thin grassy weed. I put weed and feed everywhere right before a couple of dry days and then its rained for like 2 weeks straight. Hopefully after mowing some results will show? I want to get it right so its all DIY since services just seem outrageously expensive to me since my lawn is small in both front and back. Anyway here to listen.
I think people typically wear those as they are cutting the grass. I think I am going to go with the lazy man's aerator and dethatcher and pull them with a riding lawn mower my father-in-law has.