Either that, a hurricane, or a sinkhole. It’s fun to worry about things that could destroy your home.
That’s a big house. Well it will be one day. If I recall you have 2 kids. I’m assuming the 5th bed is for kid #3. Congrats all around except for your checkbook and poker cash.
Put in an offer Monday, had a counter offer yesterday that we accepted. Yesterday and today worked on mortgage paperwork, insurance quote, and setting up home inspection. Inspection is Tuesday afternoon and mortgage guy says we should be ready to close for 9/28. Can’t break lease on our apartment so sadly we will have to pay both in November Guess I’ll be checking in here
Thanks. Oh no, we’re done with kids. 4th bedroom will be for guests and 5th bedroom will be my office. We decided to go ahead and get the bigger house so we can have room for hosting family/holidays at our place now.
Been in the house a whole 7 days now and the wife is losing it over renovations not getting started. Lord beer me strength.
Put in an offer on a house 5 hours after it hit the market yesterday and lost out to what the listing agent basically admitted was a lower offer simply because the other offer came in (but wasn't accepted) first. Buying houses is dumb .
Explain this a little more please. Why would anyone accept a lower offer just because it was received first?
I don't know for certain that they did, but their agent is close with ours and gave her that impression. We were told closing period wasn't a concern, so it's presumably not that. The most logical answer would probably be that the other offer was (potentially) full-cash while ours is financed and the difference in $ wasn't enough to overcome the uncertainty. Either that or the seller thought they wanted it more - they seem to have made an offer sight unseen and then increased their offer upon learning of another potential offer.
I just dropped 4K on new vinyl low E windows with Argon for the house which is located in North Dallas. Plano to be exact... Looking at you for that invite a.tramp New roof is going on next week and windows should be in after that.
I have foundation and lumber packages have arrived but the trusses are running behind. Come Friday we will have our 20 percent down and loan people are bugging me all day about random shit to sign.
Hopefully you guys can help me with this and hopefully I'm explaining it well. I'm building a covered deck with a shed style roof. I'm still planning out how I want to tie the roof into the house but I'm having a hard time figuring out how to get enough pitch on my roof. My house has two stories so I was thinking a way to get more pitch would be instead of having a ledger board against the rim joist to have the rafters on top of the rim joist. So I would notch the rafters out with a bird mouth and have them directly on top of the rim joist. This would give me another 9.5 inches (I'm using 2x10 for rafters), minus what I lose cutting out the bird mouth, of rise and should give me enough pitch. Is there anything wrong with tying the roof into the house like this?
Anyone have any recommendations on how to to clear a slow draining AC condensation line? Three times it has stopped up enough to shut off the AC and in Dallas thats a no go. I poured Drano down it on Friday, and it seemed to work, but I woke up sweating this morning and noticed it had turned off again. I have some Bleach gel I can pour down there and also a drain cleaner which showed it was more aimed at hair clogs and etc. I wasn't sure if anyone had any recommendations. If it helps, it seems the drain line shares the drain with the guest bathroom sink as I went to use that a week and a half ago and it drained very slowly.
I usually suck mine out with the shop vac from the outside, sucks some nice snot looking sludgy stuff out that who knows if the bleach or drano is really getting out I picked some of these up at Home Depot the other day, im sure Amazon has a bunch of them too https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-Safe...dln:{568282}+qu:{ac+condensate+drain+tablets} I havent gotten up there to put them in yet, but have heard good things about them
I I know I’ll get mixed responses but want to hear your thoughts. I’m running the numbers on putting 10% vs 20% down. I know the pmi is a waste of money but just looking at this from a financial standpoint. Let’s say if I put the extra 10% down to make a 20% down payment, it will save me $400/month on the mortgage vs if I put the 10%. That would be about $47,000 for that extra 10%. On a yearly amount, it’s saving me $4,800. It would take 10 years before i hit $48,000 to be about the same amount I would have to put down now. I’m looking at it as I would rather keep that extra $47,000 I have saved up now. I can set aside $4,800/year to use as the dirrence in payment and keep the rest as an emergency fund. I’m thinking if I have a great year in sales then I can always put more on my payment to knock the pmi off earlier. Thoughts?
I'd put the money down now. Set up bi-weekly payments and put the extra $400 on principle every month. You seem like you make a decent amount and can afford it then when rates drop out, even a little, you can look to refinance down to 15 years. Fuck paying the bank.
I would steer you away from that method. The lateral tie (resistance to horizontal separation) is of at least equal importance as vertical support. The determining factor is probably the roofing material. What are you planning on using on the new shed roof?
It should not share a drain with any interior plumbing. Not supposed to be tied into that system. If you have access to the outside end, plug it temporarily and fill the line with vinegar from the inside (if no condensate pump, i.e. gravity drain). Let it sit overnight, then remove plug. Shopvac is also a good idea, post vinegar soak.
I would put as little down as possible and take a lender paid PMI option. You take a small hit on interest rate but I'm a big believer in staying as liquid as possible for your own financial security vs. having money tied up in equity. Bi weekly payments are also the way to go which will cut quite a bit of interest off.
Just to clarify, it's a roof over my deck, a shed style roof. Will look like this: roofing will be 7/16 osb and shingled. Rafters will be 2x10 on 16inch centers.
So I think the idea to avoid tying into the interior plumbing is a new code. My buddy had the same issue, both our houses were built in the 90s. He hooked a pressure hose to the top of his to blow it out and I beleive it blew shit out of the pea traps in the guest bathrooms. So he got to clean that up. Now they are trying to snake the line from the upstairs pea traps. I am going to check mine in a bit I let the drain cleaner sit over night.
So you suggest doing something that causes a higher interest rate, which results in more interest and also paying extra for PMI, but then suggest bi-weekly payments to cut down on interest? Kinda conflicting, no?
No, the point of the bi-weekly would be to offset anything you lose by taking a higher rate and keeping yourself liquid in the process. You're not paying more interest and paying extra for PMI with LPMI, you're just paying more interest. There is no monthly PMI with lender paid. Say you can get a 4.5% on a 30 yr today for 0 points and pay monthly PMI, LPMI may bump that to 4.625 or 4.75 with 0 points, or you can buy back down to the 4.5% and have no monthly PMI. It all depends on the individual situation and how long you're going to be in the house etc. Since he's building a house, like I just did, I imagine the goal is to stay long term so all you really have to do is break down the cost over the term you think you'll stay in the house to estimate what the best situation is for you. Principal+Interest payment + PMI if applicable x # of payments you expect to make.
Close in October and you won't have to make your first mortgage payment until December. Problem solved so you don't have to double pay in November, as long as the sellers agree to close 4-5 days later. Talk to your lender about it, but I'm 99% sure if you close in October, first payment would not happen until Dec 1st.
One bank we wanted to use required 20% on construction loans. Smaller local bank didn’t. That’s the one part of the process I really hated. Bigger bank only had 1 closing. Small bank we used did two separate closing but discounted some fees. Really pissed that I had to pay 3 times for a title search when we bought land, closed on construction loan, then closed again when it converted to a traditional mortgage. It didn’t help that the title search lady flat out lied and was going through a divorce with her husband who was a business partner with my FIL. Greedy bitch making me pay for her terrible life decisions. Would have delayed my closing if I went somewhere else. Still hate her.
What is the difference in slope between conventional framing (rafter to ledger) and your idea (rafter on ledger)? Shingle manufacturer's usually recommend min 4/12 I think. In cases where we aren't able to meet that (typically a 2nd story window interferes) we will use ice and water shield (self adhering membrane) instead of felt/synthetic underlayment. I know you were keen on attaching to the existing joist band, but I would move the ledger up and fasten it to the studs above. One of those two solutions, or possibly both, might help.
Is that ok to attach the ledger to the studs? I was having a hard time finding good information on that. Wasn't sure if the studs would be adequate to handle that type of load.
Agreement was close by 10/5 which is the following Friday. I’ll have my wife ask the mortgage guy because that would be ideal Edit: They’ve already talked about that, he told her up front that we were looking at a November payment either way
Will be getting the inspection results tomorrow but he said we have no major issues so this is happening
~Laying down ram board on new floors in kitchen and den tonight for protection for remainder of remodel. ~Measuring out and marking location to set pony wall for back of kitchen island tonight. Installing said wall tomorrow. This is the part of the project I am shitting my pants the most about as there is no changing it after the plumbing and electrical go through the base. ~Saturday, plumbing crew coming for complete rough in. Estimator promised 5 day lead, crew boss said they are 2 weeks out. I promised beer and bbq for the crew if they can get it finished within the 5 day lead I was told. So it is Saturday. ~next week, insulation and sheetrock. All and all less painful than I was anticipating so far.
Interesting, I know different states do different things, but usually you don't have to make your first payment the following month which is less than 30 days. You should have a minimum of 30 days to make that payment plus the remainder days in the current month you are closing in. Question I would ask you mortgage guy, if you closed on the 5th or the 31st of October would you still have to make your first mortgage payment on Nov 1st? Good luck, just thought I throw my 2 cents in, I deal with this a lot being a realtor.
So the seller amended the wrong sale price , (3,000) in my favor ... they caught error 6 pm night before closing .
I would have no problem fastening the ledger to the studs. We used LedgerLok timber screws. If you can see or find the bottom plate of that wall, I would try and grab that too. Be mindful that there could be wires, piping, or other utilities in there as well. You could remove the existing sheathing behind the new ledger relatively easily, if you wanted to be safe.
So I tried taking down a ceiling fan and it went about as expected. Ended up facetiming my dad while I was up on a ladder holding the fan up for ~10 minutes unscrewing every screw I could see. Essentially took the whole fan apart while the wiring still held it all together. Thankfully I at least had turned the power off to the room and ended up cutting the wires. This is fun. I’m having fun.
Anyone know much about wetcast concrete vs. GFRC. Also, anyone know much about outdoor sealants for concrete countertops? TIA
I can't tell you anything about wetcast or GFRC but I am interested. In terms of outdoor sealants, I've used them before for concrete, what is your question around?
I want to install outdoor concrete countertops. I've got two companies quoting the project. One is using wetcast concrete and the other GFRC. Both of them are proposing to use different sealants. Neither of which is the product I've identified as best in market for outdoor food grade countertops. Really I'm looking for someone that doesn't have a financial interest in this project to give me some advice.
Just looked up concrete counter tops last week and was fucking blown away at how expensive they are. Also good luck with that, I ran into quite a few black holes on the minimal research I did on concrete counter tops last week.
I have a couple, let me check with them to make sure they have bandwidth right now but that shouldn't be an issue at all.