I have a very similar situation and need a retaining wall basically under the fence Money ain't there though so for now I collect large rocks and pile them up at th bottom of the fence/ cover the holes
The rocks placed by the previous owner have moved below the chain link fence due to the erosion. Retaining wall isn’t something I had considered given the slope of the hill, but perhaps that’s the answer. Fuck.
Yea, at some point I want to take the fence out and pour a wall with the new fence on top of it But $$$ so for now its rocks and being lucky my Labrador doesn't try to get out
Throw some of those Chinese mystery seeds on it and let fate take care of the rest. But for real, you need some sort of vegetation to hold the soil in place.
About to be doing a couple of plumbing projects so bought this: Only installed it last night so I'll report back but was super easy to install and so far am pretty impressed with how accurate it seems. It estimates that I'll be using about 4,000 gallons a week, which seems crazy high to me but granted I've never really tracked my water usage much and I do have a kid and irrigation system. That'll be interesting to track and see where I land.
So I’m redoing my office, which includes giving it a fresh new paint color. It looks like whoever installed the drywall in this room initially did a bad job letting the joint compound dry around the tape in the corner before they put a new layer of joint compound or paint it over it. That resulted in the drywall tape bubbling beneath the paint because of excess moisture, and created an overall ugly look. I went ahead and scraped out all of the old drywall tape, as well as the joint compound to scrape it down to the drywall. I put in new mesh tape and I have put in about three coats of joint compound to get the corner looking nice now. With the compound/tape I put in and the sanding/feathering, the corner looks pretty good. My question is this. I know you would normally prime the joint compound before painting (for color uniformity after painting). However, in my situation, I bought a paint and primer in one paint. Should I still use a real primer over the joint compound, or do y’all think the paint and primer in one will still look uniform throughout the room?
Primer will still make it more even and use less paint. PVA primer is dirt cheap and dries ridiculously quickly. Maybe give it two coats of primer (might take an hour total) before finish paint.
The floors are buckling in my vacation rental (probably due to moisture in the crawl space) and it’s booked every night for the next 32 nights
We have black quartz countertops that look like they have a burn mark on them. Anyone know if quartz can be repaired?
Thats become quite a popular retreat with Airbnb taking off. 3 hours away from me. Never been down there though. I need to
1: if it's black, doesn't the burn fit in? 2: Goddamn how hot did you get it? It's pretty heat resistant. 3: Kitchen places fix granite issues with epoxy, it's possible they can do something for you.
It’s a great place with an outstanding lake and state park. We are on the river south of the bridge where hundreds do kayak trips. I recommend wild goose kayaks if you decide to go. Plus in the winter, we get trout fishing right out the back door
Some of this may be helpful https://www.google.com/amp/s/countertopadvisor.com/how-to-remove-and-fix-countertop-burn-marks/amp/
Would you like me to book it for a month starting 32 nights from now so you can fix it? Just let me know and Venmo me twice the rental fee
I've seen several cases where missing or inadequate insulation in an unconditioned space adjacent to an area where the AC is very cool create condensation enough to damage floors and grow mold/mildew, in addition to rotting the framing. It is a nasty situation to deal with, but not a hard fix. Demo damage, treat mold, then encapsulate/insulate so that you don't have a huge temp/moisture delta across the substrate. Most of the places where I've seen this happen are near front doors, and often in the floor framing inside the house next to a masonry stoop that gets a lot of sun. HMU if you have questions or post pics.
Anyone ever used Homeadvisor.com? I went down the rabbit hole and answered some questions on some things but never actually asked for a quote (got busy at work), and holy shit at the amount of spam emails and phone calls I've received since then. Useful service, but I'll probably never use it again as a result of the spam
I have accidentally used it twice. Both times I was messaging a company on their own site only to find out that the messaging service was tapped into home advisor and my phone immediately starting ringing off the hook. Really fucking annoying.
yeah they just farm out your info (need, budget, location, etc) and take a piece. their agents are aggressive. I put in my info once, Now I open the tab in incognito mode to get their project cost estimates or company recommendations.
and doing product research when you don't want to get inundated for ads for a new lawnmower or well, anything.
I do this too, but some places caught on and now detect you are in incognito (for that purpose) and hide the content. Its a hit/miss strategy.
Another option is using a Google voice number. That way they never have your real number and you can quickly turn the google voice notifications off.
Encapsulation can be tricky. Most of the time, money would he better spent on insulation (joist cavities in your case) and ventilation. When moisture barriers are installed, it doesn't make the water go away, and can often hide the issue. You want your floor system to be a thermal break, and adequate air circulation on the crawlspace side. For instance: I've a friend building a new house with a "conditioned" crawlspace that is 6 mos old. Perimeter wall is insulated, no vents. Framing is molding already. Meanwhile, have worked on 130 year old house with an active spring (running water) under it, but it has an original drystacked stone foundation, and the (untreated, original) floor framing is fine. Building science is a really cool field, but few people understand it. The last code cycle was heavy on efficiency and being environmentally responsible (see ACH/ blower tests etc.) While we support the idea, it has been taken too far. Dwellings that are too tightly sealed pose health risks for the occupants, and serious ones at that.
My front door has a big window at the top of the door itself, about at eye level height. What do we like to cover that? I would like something where I could see out but people cant see in? And still want light to be able to come in. Does such a thing exist. Would something like this work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gila-36-in-x-78-in-Black-Privacy-Window-Film-PB78/100618512
Update: faucet was moving a lot (shark bite fitting presumably) so I slowly pulled toward outside to inspect for damage. This doesn't look great. Pulled out the wetbar on the other side of this wall and found a buttload of black mold. This is fun. Tomorrow will measure out location of sillcock, remove wood wall planks in bar area and cut through drywall to start the replacement process. I fully expect this to not go well. Or, is it easier to attack it from the outside?
I would attack from the inside first then only if need be go from outside That looks like vinyl siding and it isn't easy to remove or replace/ match And inside drywall and paint stuff is typically easier to make look good again
The good news is it's wood planks over drywall so I should be able to renail the planks to cover damage Here's the mold behind that cabinet.
House I bought last year had this exact issue. Four yard drains and two gutter drains that go from the backyard to the street were fully impacted with mud, roots, rocks, etc. Took all of the covers off and dug out all of the mud in the basins and as far as I could reach in the pipes. Next, I took a snake to all six pipes as far as I could go. Next I took a pressure washer and put the wand in the pipe as best as I could. Lastly, just turned on the hose in each one and flushed it all a few times. Drainage system flows like the mississippi river now.
**BAT UPDATE** The light kept the bats away for about a week but they eventually showed back up. So I finally got around to putting up the bat guard. I ended up just ordering some gutter guards off Amazon and stapling them up there.The tricky part was timing it because they leave right at dusk (8:15 ish) and are usually back no later than 9:30. Which surprised me cause I thought they would be out eating all night. Funny thing is you could see the old staples in the wood where the previous owner obviously had something up there to keep them away. My guess is the bats have been a problem in this house for years.
Griffin Park, where Eagle Point used to be. Brand new neighborhood, good school system, location in a still-developing area. We’ll be house-poor for sure for a while, but I think it will end up being a phenomenal investment.