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Discussion in 'The Mainboard' started by Swim Cantore, May 4, 2015.
Just crack the door open when it’s finished to let it air out and I am sure the smell will clear up.
Garage door opener died on me around noon today. Made a quick decision to go with one of the wall-mounted smart openers. This thing is awesome. Whisper quiet and continues the trend of everything in this house being “smart”.
Hmm I would think if you have a regular thermostat that you can switch it with the smart ones. My system had two zones on one unit and has a controller that turns on each based on each levels thermostat. I was able to just switch out the thermostat with no extra steps.
This. There is most likely a multi-wired communication cable. It is most likely just a matter of following the wiring diagrams for the thermostat and unit. It will be low voltage so no risk of any sort of shocking. Do kill power to the unit though while messing with the communication though and double and triple check your work so you do not blow out a low voltage fuse or short a low voltage circuit if fuse is not present.
Worst case scenario, if you have an older unit, is that there might no be enough wires to speak with the new thermostat so a new comm cable or additional comm cable would need to be pulled.
Worst case scenario, if you have an older unit, is that there might no be enough wires to speak with the new thermostat so a new comm cable or additional comm cable would need to be pulled.[/QUOTE]
I pulled the thermostat off the wall and there are only 3 wires going into it instead of the usual 4+
just the wires labeled 1, 2, 3 are connected to the thermostat
Idk, that looks like more than 3 wires to me.
that’s the control panel on the furnace
Got it. You said you pulled the thermostat off and then showed pictures of the furnace control. I was confused.
my hot water heater is 22 years old, so i reckon i ought to replace it. i was thinking of going with one of these natural gas tankless deals, anyone have experience w these?
I’m high as balls but this mistake is your fault regardless
the wires in the panel labeled 1, 2 and 3 are the only ones that connect to the actual thermostat
hipsterjoe my guess would be that is some sort of an interface and that the 3 wire communication is a streamlined version of what is usually sent to a thermostat location. So in other words, many more wires would need to go to the thermostat location (like all the other wires connected there)
But, much more info would be needed to point you in the right direction.
are there ppl who specialize in hot water heater installations or does any sort of plumber do it
what's a good or shitty brand and how do i even get a handle on how to determine that
plumber or HVAC company, venting is really critical.
most companies like the brands they like and are hesitant to go with something different than their choice so find the company you like and roll with them and their recommendation.
Make sure and check for rebates via your local utilities.
Also when you start calling plumbers, it's just a water heater. Rinnai (Rin-I) is a well respected brand in tankless. Google some reviews, find a local installer for the brand you're favoring, and have them come out and work up a quote.
I lean towards this being similar to my set up. If the thermostat itself is just like a typical one then you should be able to just replace the thermostat with any smart one. The smart thermostats aren’t sending any extra information to the units then a regular one.
I would say it's worth looking into heat pump water heaters. The up front cost is pretty high but depending on how many years your in your house, how much water you use, the pay back period can be pretty quick.
They still have some clean-up and landscaping to do, plus hooking up the gas for the fire pit, but I love how this turned out.
perfect for all of your wifes suitors to use
Fuck off. They come through the front door like men of honor.
what is a good rate to expect on a home improvement loan? we are thinking around $75K
If you are doing a home equity loan, I would ball park that around 4.5-6% fixed.
If it is a home equity line of credit it will be in the same range but a variable rate.
Your other option is to do a cash out refi which will most likely have you somewhere in the 2.5-3.5% range but you’ll have about 5-10k in closing costs and you can’t take out cash higher than 80% of the value of your home.
You can find local banks that will lend 90-100% of your home value on a home equity product
About to do a cash out refinance myself. Going with the option with lowest closing cost, will be a rate of 3.75% and $1700 in closing cost.
I hope my basement doesn't flood today, expected 2-4 inches here in Cincy. #Ohio State Buckeyes
Some unexpected chores this morning. Thankful it missed my shed
I had 8” in the basement of my new home on Labor day. We got 5” of rain in an hour. I’m also now doing $20k of grading and drainage in the backyard to mitigate the situation.
Yeah, but enough about your sex life! Lol got ‘em.
Damn Boom TittyMilk living like Ted kazinsky
It’s got electricity and heat
Inspector question for the board..we are in the process of building a home and part of the package with the builder includes an inspector coming to check at different stages. How many of you have also hired your own independent inspector? And at what stages did you have them come out to check?
I'm going through this right now, our builder only did the inspections required for permit, but are open to anyone hiring their own. I went a little overboard and had a structural engineer come out and check the concrete forms when they poured the foundation walls, and i'll have him come again to look at the structure now that we have a fully framed house. Then I'm having a reputable home inspection company come take a look just prior to drywall (when you'll likely have a walkthrough anyway, you'd do it the day before that), and then another inspection right before closing on the house.
Pre-drywall, prior to closing and before your warranty is up.
Thanks. This is exactly what I was looking for. We have the foundation going in end of next week and I want another pair of eyes on that. Do you mind sharing the price for the structural engineer? I am going to start calling around and curious on ballpark amount.
My engineer was $400 for the inspection and report. It was just good to know that they were doing everything within their power to limit settling and foundation issues.
FIgure $100/hr for any engineering. I don't think all houses/sites need this step, but some certainly do. I'll also say that as a GC, local inspectors vary widely in quality/thoroughness even within the same county. Not a bad idea to double check the key areas. From my side, I would also be prepared to charge an owner for something that met or exceeded code, but the 3rd party wanted changed. It says in our contract package what code cycle we are expected to work to.
Yeah especially with a track builder such as ours, it was probably overkill, but I'm an engineer and I overkill everything. The plan is for this to be our "forever home" so a few extra inspections just to give us the peace of mind that we did everything we could to make sure nothing too bad happened to the house later on was kind of our mindset.
But I definitely advise an inspection before drywall and another before closing. It's the only time you'll ever have to inspect the guts of your house.
100% concur. In the event that we do trim behind framers who don't work for us, I stipulate a walk through before drywall. And that's for aesthetic reasons.
Best sites/stores for affordable couches that I don’t have to put together myself?
What’s your budget?
I should have clarified more than just saying affordable
it’s for our sun room, so not our main couch, so I was hoping less than $1k
Yikes. Goodwill? Salvation Army?
No, but I’m sure you can get something in that range from any of the big chains.
Big Lots, you poor.