My guy is $900 flat. No idea how that might compare locally for you. Heaters are typically 4-500 bucks. Note: smaller isn't always less expensive.
Mine was $1000, 3B/3B for reference. He has a brand he uses and I didn’t even look into units to be honest.
cross-posting from the election thread (yes that's right) The Lt Gov of Pennsylvania and his wife converted an old car dealership in a rust belt town outside of Pittsburgh into their home and it's incredible. Also, a special hello to Mrs Fettermann https://www.designsponge.com/2016/0...ar-dealership-becomes-an-industrial-home.html Spoiler
One of my windows seems to have separated from its frame leaving gaps on 3/4 sides, in some spots >1 inch. It sounds like it will take 16 weeks to get it replaced. Any temporary suggestions?
In one picture you can see a wall mounted head unit for a mini split, which would make sense if they didn't want any exposed ductwork. Going that route then you just have to run copper lines to any head units which would be easier to hide.
Getting my house painted and have a siding issue I need to deal with. 1970 house with masonite (think that's what its called, basically feels like cardboard) siding and have one area that is in pretty bad shape. Rest of the house is in good shape and I probably won't be here but for another 3 years so don't feel like replacing all the siding. Problem is far as I can tell they don't make this product anymore and I'm trying to match the rest of the existing siding of the house. Boards are 12 inch exactly and .25 inch depth. Having a hard time finding a siding product to match though. Not a big area that needs to be replaced so was thinking about just getting 4x8 sheets of plywood and ripping them down to make my own siding. Thoughts?
Check “This Old House” website and suppliers. Maybe also see if you have a historic commission in your town who can recommend someone, and/or trying to find the builder/developer and seeing if they have some in a back closet (or know the manufacturer).
Fiber cement is available in 12". Has to be face and blind nailed. Masonite is total garbage. Might check on LP SmartMoney and Boral too, though I expect the are both too thick. You can also get 4x8 sheets of PVC if you're going fast'n'nasty. I know you can get 3/8" and expect quarter could be ordered. Holler if you need more help.
You can see the gap at the top where I can’t get the cheap caulking to stick. On the sides the gap is typically the same size as the caulking
Looks like a wood sash casement? The sash isn't shutting back to the stop. Make sure the latch isn't keeping it open due to poor alignment. Failing that......If you can find a brand, it should have perimeter gaskets/weatherstripping that could be replacement. Brand would be etched in glass corner, printed on the spacer between the panes of glass, or on a sticker (usually in the head (top) jamb). Does it still operate? If you're going to replace it regardless, you can always spray foam the gaps?
Where could I find this? Have had a hard time finding anything like that. Is my plywood idea a bad idea? Was thinking if I primed the hell out of it and painted it well it would be fine to use and would be easy enough to rip into the 12 inch pieces I need. Also, about 3/4 of the siding that needs to be replaced are under 8 foot lengths so the 4x8 plywood would work well for that too.
That's nuts. I'd think you could see a problem with the sash if it was warped that badly or bound somehow. It has a crank open/close mechanism, right?
Plywood won't last very long (delaminates fairly quickly, even painted), but might work for your needs. Fiber cement can be had through most lumberyards, I'd expect. It will be 12' lengths (for lap siding) and you need a grinder or special shears to cut it. Many people call ALL fiber cement "Hardi-board", which isn't correct but might help in your search. It can also be had in 4x8 and 4x10 sheets, but again, takes special tools. It is also quite heavy.
Thanks for the advice. The siding is shit anyway but will probably last well enough for another 5 years or so, would imagine the plywood will last at least that long. Whoever buys the house next will need to replace the siding anyway so that's probably the route I'll go.
Whatever it is, that's a manufacturers problem You need to find out the manufacturer of those windows and get them out there
If I wanna put some of these down in my side yard to make a pad for my garbage cans, dig up the grass a bit, then put some gravel down, pack it level, then place these?
FIL has been working on a fence for the doggo and a shed. Spoiler said doggo how the fuck do I customize the spoiler tag, lol
Sounds like a plan. If you were doing a patio or the like, it's good to do compacted aggregate (57s), then screeded crusher run, then sand. For garbage cans that's total overkill, obviously.
Ok, who's the mortgage expert here? Jorts ? We're more than likely moving, this time to AZ, in the next 6-9 months. We'll have ~$500k in cash available at that time but want to know what we would qualify for, mortgage wise in case we want to have a mortgage again (current house is paid off and it doesn't suck to not have a payment). I've always used local banks for real estate transactions but don't have any connections to any local banks there. So: Does it make sense to either get pre qualified or pre approved right now, knowing we likely aren't buying for 6 months? If yes to the above question, does it make much difference one way or the other using a local bank vs. a big national one (WF, BoA, etc)? I believe that's all of my current questions, I'll hang up and listen.
Credit reports typically only last 90-120 days so if you get pre-approved now you'll have to have your credit pulled again before you buy. If that's not an issue and you don't think you'll have many other credit inquiries in the next 6 months then you could go ahead and do it just to give you an idea of what you can expect to afford six months from now. You can also calculate that manually yourself though. https://www.bankrate.com/calculators/mortgages/ratio-debt-calculator.aspx Maximum Debt to Income ratio for a Conventional loan is going to be around 43%. As for using a local lender vs. a national one, it's my opinion it doesn't matter and just depends on your particular circumstances. I used to work for a local bank but now work for a national lender and it has been my experience that interest rates and closing costs are lower with this national lender than they were the local bank but that is just my singular experience and certainly isn't guaranteed to be true for you. Edit: I am also a mortgage lender. Neither Jorts nor myself are licensed to lend in Arizona but I can certainly put you in touch with a colleague of mine who is should you want me to do so. Jorts may be able to do the same.
I kinda figured the banks wouldn't matter. I don't really have any idea how to calculate our income, at least how it would be measured for a mortgage. We have a handful of businesses that we manage and draw income off of. When we moved to Texas and applied for a mortgage here, the bank counted a $40k depreciation of an asset THAT WE HAD ALREADY SOLD against our income for that year, calling it a repeatable loss (or some shit like that)...so I have no idea what our "income" number would be for a debt to income ratio.
Determining income can be tricky when it comes to circumstances like that. The easiest way to figure everything out on your end would probably be to just go ahead and get pre-approved somewhere. If your credit scores are good and you don't anticipate other credit inquiries between now and buying then let them pull your credit once and figure everything out. That would be my suggestion. But, honestly, you could even tell the lender that you don't want to purchase for several months and you're not ready to have your credit pulled but would like to go ahead and get an idea of your affordability then they should be able to do that for you if you can provide income documents and pretty good estimates of what your monthly liabilities/debts are. They'll likely need a credit report before giving you any official pre-approval but they should be willing to accommodate you this many months out assuming you'll come back to them when you're ready to actually make moves and have your credit pulled. Also, don't limit yourself to banks. There are non-bank lenders and also mortgage brokerages that might be better fits than a bank itself. Banks tend to offer mortgages but don't always prioritize mortgage business. For instance, neither Jorts nor I work for a bank currently but we both used to.
I mean I'm reading TMB when I should be working so the least I can do is provide some mortgage info on TMB. Happy to answer any questions you or anyone else have whenever you have them. Mortgage process can be confusing and even intimidating but it doesn't have to be and isn't bad once you understand how it all works.