Old broken attic fan in my rehab last spring, we ripped it out and covered up area, not needed with new hvac and insulation. Only used attic fan in cooler temps anyways in the past.
You can’t just drop and “easiest solution i....” and not polish that sucker off. There is a code here. tell me your attic ductwork condensation magic cure
haha started to type something out but had to run, didn't realize I posted that. Was just going to say easiest solution is to add more insulation around ductwork which I think another poster said as well. Thing is though, especially living in Florida, having your ductwork run through the attic is always going to suck for condensation reasons, performance, and just general comfort. Best solution to your problem is to make your attic part of your insulated envelope with most likely spray foaming or some kind of other insulation solution.
Probably a dumb question, but I have some plan with a AC/Heating company and they come out and tuneup/maintenance the unit each year. Anyways they’re scheduled to come out and do my AC unit tomorrow but of course after being hot last week the high tomorrow is 55 with overnight lows of 30. Should I reschedule this, or is it not that big of a deal to turn it on for a little bit while they test everything then be done with it? I’m sure it’s not a huge deal or else they’d re schedule it but I also assume they just want to get these done with ASAP.
I think the idea is generally to clean the system before it gets heavy and continuous loads, so it's a good time. They can still set it below the ambient temp to test and check the refrigerant levels
Cool that’s what I figured, but then have heard people say you shouldn’t run your AC if it’s below 60 degrees or something.
LPT: You can order paint ahead of time on Home Depot website Bonus lifehack: The guy working at paint doesn't give a shit and gives you your paint without updating system and your paint is free.
Wanting to replace the wood on our deck as we never liked the color when we bought the house almost 4 years ago, and the wood is starting to rot and warp. It is a pretty standard shape, 20 x 12. Do you think this would be a doable DIY project? I’m thinking so since the framing is solid. We’d go the composite route since wood prices are so crazy right now.
doesn't look too bad in the pics. With the price of lumber being what it is, I'd sand and stain and seal it and get another 5+ years out of it
I just did my whole deck. Flipped, cleaned, sanded and stained every board. Went from a 12k$ job to about 500$.
Heeey I'm not an engineer I've just been fucking one for the last 30 years, but if I were you I'd cut those 4x4 posts down and top them with a 4x12 running under all that joist framing instead of having it all be held up by some lag bolted 2x12s
I'd bet he's ok considering half the damn thing is loaded on some patio bricks And lol at needing something like a 4x12
It's probably not that big of a deal but as it's built it wouldn't have passed plan check in our county We have a 13x15 deck area that's barely off the ground in our front yard, and it's all 4x12 framing underneath the joists
I got a couple of the Endless Summer ones last year but I guess they didn't like the full afternoon sun and didn't survive.
Lol, if only you knew an engineer who could argue against whatever dumbass at the county requires that
Saw in the other thread your thinking about ZTRs I really love my Big Dog Alpha MP, had it a few years now It's really the same thing as the Hustler SD (or whatever they call their higher end consumer grade mowers) but it's not that God awful yellow color and has a few upgrades standard over the standard Hustler you can get at big box stores
Save yourself the headache and $$$ and just replace what is rotting and refinish the deck. For most decks, joists are 16" on center, for Composite boards most manufacturers require no more than 12" on center. If you put composite boards on 16" OC joists, your deck could end up looking like this....
Yeah we get more sun in the morning but mostly shaded in front during the afternoon. I think they should do good for us
See I don't really even know if I need a ZTR. I was just interested in seeing the ratings. Are they significantly more expensive than a standard riding mower? I've really just started my research.
Depending on what your looking at they are typically more expensive, but much faster and longer lasting Also more stable on a slope if that's something you gotta worry about
I'm not really dealing with a massive yard. Just more than I want to push in the summer in GA. There are a couple slopes but nothing I don't think a regular riding mower couldn't handle.
If your looking at big box store lawn tractors, just make sure it's got a Kohler engine and find the best deal on one that has the features and size you want/need I'm pretty sure they are all made by MTD Hydrostatic transmissions with foot pedals is nice I used to have a cub cadet that worked perfectly fine for 10+ years
I dont know anymore, but when I was looking Kawa wasn't an option on the lawn tractors, just on the ztr's
When I did the research online a year ago, the Kawasaki was rated much higher. Mind you I was only looking at ZT’s
Do I want a brad nailer or a finish nailer to hang shiplap? Does it really matter that much? Brad nailers seem to be less expensive.