uhhhh is that big shit with the little straw? i want the bottom. but it will be also indoors so can dry quicker..
I had no problem filling a 4" gap with the same stuff. You'll be alright if you control your bead. Run a practice line on something you can dispose of, wait a minute or two to see how this stuff reacts. Don't wait hours or the next day after your trial run as this stuff will clog that straw once it sets.
Use the blue can. The red can expands more. The black can even more. The practice run outside on something you can dispose of is damn good advice. Use a drop cloth inside, and have somewhere to set the can down when you are done, as it will continue to come out for a few seconds. If you are trying to do finesse work against finished surfaces, mask off what you need to, and focus on getting as little as possible to come out. Dry residue (wait min. of a few hours) can be trimmed off with a razor blade.
Also, to the inquiry about furnaces. Expanding polyurethane foam is extremely volatile during application and curing. Bad flammable vapors. There is a product that is made specifically as a fire stop foam, but I have no experience with it. Google is probably your friend, as I am sure there is more info about than what I can provide.
For those wanting to put up a shed don't get the cheap prefab aluminum. One of the worst diy projects of my life. I didn't take the proper steps to make sure the foundation was perfectly level. This led to shed base getting unsquare. That led to a huge shit show that took about 10 hours to finish. Spend a couple of hundred extra dollars for a better prefab or better yet build it yourself.
Anyone have a trex deck and if so do you like it? Its between that and a stamped concrete patio for me, and I'm leaning trex deck.
They've removed the back door to deliver new appliances. Waiting on county plumbing inspector. Packing up kitchen today for demo.
What is your experience level? If you have framing experience, you can get the sticks up, the trusses on, and have it skinned in a day. If not, well, good luck. The trusses alone will cost close to $500. Unless you know what you're doing, I highly advise against making your own trusses, both for reasons of structural stability and personal frustration.
Final walk through this evening. Have a list of stuff we want to check/measure, but nothing crazy as there weren't any seller's repairs required when negotiating. Any advice?
They have "kits" that come with the basic stuff and plans for $100 and I have a contractor buddy and another friend whose hobby is wood working that have agreed to help. Under $1,000
I'm decent with my hands so maybe I'm wrong but I didn't think building the trusses was too bad. I set up a jig on the floor of the shed so that I knew I had all the same angles on every truss. The hardest part was getting that set up right but once I had that down it made pretty quick work of it. Here's the shed I built last year. It's 10x10 and about 14 feet high. Made it nice and high that I could basically get an attic in it. Can't remember what the total cost of it was but somewhere just a little north of $2,000 for everything.
$100 for a kit? :skeptical hippo: If you have a contractor buddy, you should be fine. I'm currently building a monstrosity of a fortress in our back yard for the kiddos to fall off of. I'm building it as a pole structure with 3-ply 2 x 6 as the posts. It's 16' high. I'll post pics after I finish it this weekend.
The angles on the trusses is the toughest/most frustrating part, especially when you're doing a gambrel truss like you did. Calculating the transition angle from a 4/12 to an 8/12 or 10/12 isn't easy. Once you get the angles right, a jig is definitely the way to go. Nice work, btw.
Got trusses for shed I built fabricated by a local lumber shop for seemingly nothing relative to the time I would have spent. Shockingly cheap markup over what lumber alone would have cost at Home Depot, including delivery. If you can shop around for this it's money well spent.
I got recessed lighting installed in the living room last night. Put in a smart dimmer with them, and noticed a 'humming' sound. Anyone have this issue? Thinking i may need to call the guy who installed them to come back out to fix it. Lights are LED
Buzzing can still happen with LED dimmers unfortunately. Seems to be a roll of the dice in terms of the bulbs/dimmer/unknown other factors.
If a fire place was listed as wood burning, advertised as wood burning, but found to not be in condition to burn wood, realistically how much could I press they make repairs? It's an old home and would need the chimney to be completely reworked but I'd just make it vent less gas. Am thinking about requesting they repair the fire floor and caps as making it full ventless ready would be more of an upgrade than a repair?
Same thing happened to me last October, and I was able to get the seller to pay a compromised amount of my closing costs. I like this more than having them repair it, because you never know the quality of contractor they are going to hire. I think it was going to be $8,500 to completely fix it, and we were able to get them to pay $6,000 in closing costs.
Don't put the sellers in charge of making repairs, just have he cover some closing costs as mentioned above or come off the price some. My first house the sellers had a absolute moron try and repair some basic odds and ends and he was so bad I sent him home. Pissed off both agents and the sellers because we hadn't closed and I was down there trying to fire someone else's contractor.
On this note, paying closing costs is literally money in your pocket, while lowering the selling price just lowers your loan amount.
Going to walk through a home tomorrow that a builder had been renting out the last 4 years after building it and now is gonna sell. They are "turning" it, so fixing/cleaning up like new. If I decide to buy it I can pick carpets and probably be able to get them to do any other tweaks I might want as they are a client of mine. Anything I should be thinking about when looking at it?
I have the BLUE FUCKING CAN burnttatertot that is the gap i feel hot air coming out of it at night in my hallway (which my nest is 3 feet from this pic) and it pisses me off. i am going to 1. test the blue can with the straw applicator 2. lay old carpet/towels around everywhere and tape off edges. 3. pray 4. try it out very slowly 5. when things go wrong, blame the wife 6. drink heavily
WAIT WAIT WAIT.... are you trying to fill the gap on the edge of the actual door? like where the door opens and closes? as in, if you filled it with super glue you would never be able to open the door? cause thats what it looks like you are about to do, is spray foam your door shut
You can try some of this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Ki...Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R734H/100047977
trip to HD is back on. will get this. i guess i can razor blade it in there to wear the gap is covered and i can still open the door is everyone in agreement?
I still want a recap of the hospital visit where they carve the foam out of your eye after it drips down from the overhead application... But short of that yeah weatherstripping is the ticket
when i did some gaps in bricks and siding etc when we moved in, i didnt use gloves. swear that shit was on my skin for about 3-4 weeks
You know, when he described what he was doing, I was trying to picture it in my head, and it ended up with a door sealed with foam every single way. I just assumed I was missing something and everybody knew what they were doing.