Ya, I'm using the NST tablets. I thought that was Bromine? Just looked I'm wrong. Here's what I bought. https://www.poolgeek.com/products/poolife-nst?variant=39330434577 My FC is zero every time I measure it.
You may need to up the number of tabs you’re using at once to keep up. That tab is slow dissolving cal hypo & is excellent for water quality.
A ton of leaves are getting in my pool, every day the skimmer buckets are completely full. Will be going out of town 3/4 days for Thanksgiving, should I just turn the pump off until I get back?? TIA
The leaves shouldn't clog your pump suction but I would shock it then turn your pump off while you're gone. Also, put a chlorinator floaty with a couple of tablets in it and you should be good
I think it is affecting the pump suction. One skimmer has always had way more suction, I've adjusted the tab inside as much as possible. This morning the alpha skimmer was extremely compacted with leaves and even had some leaves overflowing into pool. Beta skimmer was pretty full as well which never happens unless alpha is full. Also it's a salt water pool so don't think I use a chlorinator float thingy. Low temp while I'm gone is projected to be 44 degrees. First thought is to throw some shock in at lunch and run pump until I get off work then kill power until I get back. But I'm all new to this so idk
Gotcha. Either way I think turning your pump off while you're gone is the right move, I do it too and I'd put the amount of leaves in my pool against anyone's. All a floating chlorinator will do is keep a chlorine level in your pool when your salt cell isn't running. I use one and don't have to run my pump as often. They're pretty cheap and chlorine tablets aren't too expensive.
If temps were going to be below freezing what would I do? Very possible over Christmas Hopefully all the leaves will be gone by then
Depends. If you're expecting a long, hard freeze it might be best to drain piping to your filtration skid then cover it. If you only expect freezing temperatures at night/ early a.m. I would just set my timer to run during that time.
As someone who wants to build a pool and entertainment backyard I should probably avoid any lots with trees right? we just looked at a 3.5 acre property but it probably has .5 to 1 acre of trees towards the backend of the lot (where the backyard/pool) area would be located. How big of a pain in the ass are leaves?
I’m pulling leaves out of my pool everyday right now, and will continue to do so until probably March. It takes about 10 minutes of my time but I only pull the worst out, it’s nowhere near leaf-free, I’m mainly trying to free up the skimmer and empty the pool vac. My trees are varied and shed leaves at different times, so if yours are all the same then the pain-in-the-assery only lasts for a limited time. I don’t think it’s too much to deal with, but I also enjoy the hell out of it.
Our old 1 HP pool motor is about to go, so just going to replace the whole pump. Do I want to install a variable speed instead of sticking with the single speed?
We’ve seen a very large decrease in our electricity bill since installing this: https://www.poolinfloor.com/pentair...eS8gKHcZ4lzI4ZOE9GM30VzM7cdholiwaAormEALw_wcB
I bought at the link I posted. Great price, and installation was a breeze. I recommended it to my dad as well and he’s now running the same pump. It’s the market standard for 1.5hp variable speed pumps and it’s what a.tramp told me to get when I did my recent equipment overhaul.
Ive had 3 places tell me when showing them the link “if you buy it online, it comes with a different warranty” but from what I’ve read that’s bullshit as long as you it gets installed by a certified installer.
The company villa down in the DR is pretty nice. Cigar and rolling paper mfg is pretty profitable it seems.
I believe that’s correct. I think it makes financial sense to just forego the warranty. With the money you save buying it online and installing it yourself you could buy a second pump in the unlikely event yours shits out on you.
On the warranty issue, check your credit card T&Cs as many tack on an extra year onto warranties of items purchased with said credit card. Also check the exclusions - no idea if a pool pump would be covered.
My jandy/aqualink indoor panel has been showing an incorrect temperature for a while. I now receive a message that there is a short with the temperature sensor. I see a way to replace that sensor that runs from a control box to the heater. Question is, my outdoor heater's panel is reading a correct temp. Should there be 2 sensors (one for the heater and one for the indoor panel), or will the heater have an internal temperature sensor?
the heater has an internal sensor but if it's properly hooked up to your control panel, the temp control on the heater is bypassed for the one on the Jandy panel. your heater sensor is still important to prevent temperatures that could be damaging. replace the panel temp sensor. I am also confused as to why the heater panel is even on - most heaters don't show anything if they are being bypassed but i don't know what kind of heater you have.
Thanks; that is how it's hooked up and the apparent cause to my problem. That sensor has always been wrong, so my spa would never get hot enough because it was relying on the jandy's incorrect reading. The heater isn't on, but it does provide the current temp even when off. Side note... Pools are such a dirty game. The two places around me sell the sensors for $90 and $120 without installation. They're under $25 on amazon.
horribly dirty game. it should be an easy sensor for self-install. www.troublefreepool.com forum is a good place if you have questions.
Hell yeah it is. Someone even made a song about it, which is not the worst thing I've listened to today
The majority of the newest generation of heaters do have a working display, at least when the filter pump is under load, even if there is no call to heat from the automation system. This is due to the “remote” mode they are placed in that gives over control via the communication cable. Pentair & Sta-Rite heaters (basically the same thing) only have a working display when there is a call for heat from the automation center. This is because Pentair uses the simplest and most cost effective solution to control automation. There is no additional hardware or software required to automate (whether at the production level or field level). It simply ties into the existing low voltage circuitry in the ignition sequence and either has the circuit open or closed, depending on the demand.
This is indeed the highest performing energy efficient pump on the market. But it has its limitations, size. If a pump from 2-3 hp is needed (combined pool & spa sharing the same pump/filtration) go with the IntelliFlo VSF. It is what I install almost exclusively for filtration.
Speaking of variable speed pumps, the government is mandating energy efficient pumps for inground pool filtration. When? July 2021. Does it effect you? Only if you do not already have an energy efficient filter pump for your in ground pool that already meets the requirements. There are currently no approved single speed pumps that meet the requirements, even if it was “Energy Star” when it was purchased. What about water feature/auxiliary pump? Single speeds are fine. What does that mean for you? If you have a single speed filter pump, if the motor goes out, consider using that as the opportunity to go ahead and get compliant. Switch to a variable speed that is already on the approved list so you do not throw good money after bad. You will not have to run out and by one when the mandate starts but are expected to become compliant from that point forward when a motor/pump replacement is required.
i upgraded to the VSF a few weeks ago. The only annoying part is I have Jandy automation which only recognizes it as VS instead of as VF. So can't set to various flow rates. Not that it's very important.
Do you have automation or manual set-up? I love the display in manual operation, you can see just how much energy your pool drains when moving lots of water. People are reluctant when I tell them I can save them loads of money over the life of the pump but when I can show them they are only using 8-900Was opposed to 2-2.5 kW, their mind is blown. Of course, some pool designs limit the ability to save money but for the majority of them, the ability is there.
Automation: iAquaLink. My option really is to unplug from automation and make a spreadsheet of the gpm at various speeds with heater on or off (i have the Jandy JXi with Versaflo so it bypasses the heater when off) and do that for both pool and spa mode. Then I'll know the gpm at various rpms basically and graph it out. The iAquaLink app is nice though because it also shows me the wattage.
My project last Friday. A builder had placed 11 low voltage LED lights in a fountain, working off of a single 300W transformer when they built the fountain 5 years ago. This was within the light manufacturers allowable specs, at the time, and also did not exceed any electrical requirements. Fast forward many years, the LED fixtures were failing (overheating and splitting) about every 1.5-2 years. At about $1k per fixture, that adds up quickly. So I set on a orange home depot bucket for 3 hours installing 3 x 300W transformers to prevent the fixtures from overheating and splitting. And then also replacing 2 fixtures as well. So now there are 2 bundles of 4 lights and 1 bundle of 3 lights each tied to a transformer. the job would have been much easier but the previous transformer was placed in the control panel 20’ away so there was no way to send 3 stepped down load conductors in the existing conduit so I had to octopus them of the aide of the j-box. Also, a pic of their pool and spa (hard to see, just to the left of the blue umbrellas) in case you thought there fountain was ridiculous. I will soon be doing the exact same job on the pool only it will be 4 transformers as they have 16 lights there .