I'm just having a hard time thinking about 200k+ on a turbo 6cyl rather than a naturally aspirated V8.
completely agree - I am on a work sponsored reimbursement plan where I am on a 4 year retention cycle - so I will get to within shouting distance of 100k and trade it in
Rejoining. Got rid of my 2012 f150 last year due to increase in commute, but decided to go back to the truck, so I got 2017 f150 the other day. Truck for life
just picked up my new company provided truck, 2017 GMC 2500HD not my first choice as my personal truck is a Ford and I love Ford's, but the price I paid is nice this truck is pretty damn fancy
I'm about ready to finally make the switch from my 2005 to a new model. I need cooled seats instead of the black leather inferno I deal with currently. I don't often tow anything and would love to have lower emissions and better gas mileage so EcoBoost seems like the play.
I dont even really know, its pretty base I think, but power everything, pretty fancy radio stuff with phone connection (Apple & Android car connect or whatever its called) Wifi built in and all that jazz Truck is tall as shit, I almost fell over when I jumped out of it earlier, forgetting how high up it is. I actually just dropped it off at the accessory place to get N-fab steps and toolbox put on it.
Hey you guys that are quoting metric sizes instead of flotation - the number that you're referring to is the section width, it doesn't define the height of the tire. The second number in the metric sizing refers to the sidewall aspect ratio. You can't quote a section width and expect people to understand what diameter the tires are. Metric: 285/70/17 means the tire is 285mm wide and the sidewall is 70% of the section width and 17 is the size of the wheel. The imperial sizing would be a 33x11.50r17 which means it is a 33" tall tire with an 11.5" wide section width. People commonly refer to those as "33's" but calling your tire a "285" is like saying "my tires are 11.5 inches wide but if they were 12" wide they would rub I think".. well not necessarily. Depends on how far your wheels stick out. That's what is known as the "backset". Put it another way: a 285/70-17 is taller than a 305/60-17. The 305 is wider, but having a 60-series tire means that it is only 798mm in diameter as opposed to the 831mm diameter of the narrower 285.
Question for you guys - bought a 08 f150 a few months ago. Ended up jumping on a decent deal quickly (ended up biting a huge piece out of my ass) and didn't get the tow package on the truck. Dealer told me it had a camper / tow package but he was full of shit. It's got the bumper hitch - never used one of those before. Should I just go ahead and get a real hitch put on it before pulling a uhaul?
Yup. That's what what was leaning towards but if the bumper was workable I may have tried to save a little cash.
There's the new one. Xlt with the 302 package so some decent options. 2.7 ecoboost. I had the 3.5 boost and the old 3.7 v6 before and since I never tow anything big this will do for daily driver/family vacation truck. The daughter was more excited about getting a blue truck back than me.
Does your company pay for the accessories or do you just take them off and sell them when it's time for a new truck?
this is Man Information which by code must be given freely to other men in a truck thread, no condescension was intended.
I always went by standard when I was younger and had a Jeep. 31x11.50r15 life It seems anymore that it's standard amongst tire manufacturers to refer to their tires in metric though
Since y'all are dropping some pics... My new "Toy" Spoiler Anyone have any tips or advice on off roaring shocks? Looking for something that's decent quality, that I can take off road, but still have a comfortable ride on the road? Thanks for the input, Boys.
Don't have it on mine; that's the next step up from the options I have. I do like that the backup camera also shows a ghost path of how the truck will travel if you maintain that path
they buy them, we have an account at a couple of accessory shops, pretty much anything i want i just go get
love the white - it's what I wanted but dealer had one with FX4 at the same price in grey. here's me:
FX4 is analogous to Chevrolet's Z71 package in that it incorporates off-road suited options? (Skid plates, stiffer suspension, etc)
actually has the STX package and the FX4 - so it's got the wheels you see there, 8-inch touch screen with sync 3 and carplay, rear window defroster, and some other smaller aesthetic stuff.
I've put lifts on a couple of them now and had to do a fair bit of research to keep it from rubbing like crazy, so I thought I would share with my TMB brethren If you're driving a stock height truck and not changing the wheels, yours is the correct approach The whole world refers to tire sizes according to the european (metric) standard. The only hold-outs are really the tires that are only sold in the US - ie, big stupid mud tires, who are still stubbornly clinging to the american standard... probably because their core demographic likes to sing about their 37 Nittos when Florida Georgia Line comes on the radio.
so what you're saying is if i have stock height, 18" factory wheels and wanna put on 285/65/18s, no leveling kit is required?
I have now been quoted $500 and $775 for a leveling kit and install - trying really hard to get under $400
What size leveling kit did you get? There's 2" 2.25" and 2.5" ... depending on the brand the parts should be $180-$250 as long as they aren't replacing the shocks too. Figure that they have to put a markup on the parts to cover costs there and then labor to remove and reinstall springs. Depending on what labor rates are in your area (like $125 in my neck of the woods for labor at a 4wd shop). Mechanic or specialty shop rates are expensive. Buy the parts yourself and then take them into a lineup shop and ask them for a quote to give you a front end alignment and install these spacers, as you hand them the box. If you find an old-school alignment shop, their labor rates are pretty inexpensive and as a bonus, they know what the fuck they are doing with suspension. You should be able to get in close to your $400 range that way. A little more of a pain in the ass but probably a better end result.