Hey Fafa fofo use promo code ‘Fudd’ and receive 0% off your purchase https://usd.farer.com/products/cresta-chronograph-sport https://usd.farer.com/products/cobb
Fun fact - I almost spent my watch savings fund on a Farer when I saw this: I really like a couple of their pieces but the lack of a bracelet was a downer
Reverso and Submariner Would you buy those new? Would you buy pre-owned? If pre-owned, do you care about box/papers? If I were to get the submariner, I’m pretty certain I’d go used because a) no AD dealer knows I exist, and b) I really love the cleaner face from the late 90s early 00s: https://www.chrono24.com/rolex/submariner-no-date--id14849222.htm?SETLANG=en_US&SETCURR=USD
Pre-owned and full set only matters if you plan on reselling IMO. Were I you, I would find a couple dealers on Chrono24 who have many listings, including both the Reverso and Sub. I would call them and barter for a single one of the two, get a great price, then inquire about the other and press for a larger discount (as a %) on that piece. Then ask for more off and pay with a bank wire. From what I’ve seen, C24 gets a 4-6% cut and credit card fees are around 3%, so a minimal starting spot is 10% off for not going through C24.
I’m a cheap bastard and this is my plan for when I’m ready to buy. I’ve gone so far as to scout out who has what and their reviews, so I have an idea where to start. Also be careful to be sure to factor in sales tax. Some places (Crown & Caliber) will collect sales tax and others don’t. Lastly, see if the dealer has in-house watchmakers and reviews the pieces before selling, or even service them because most don’t have service histories. Get some type of warranty and try to negotiate cost down if no service or service history, because you’ll probably want one after purchasing.
I'm looking now for a submariner, I'm have been back and forth on new or used. I'm very picky with my watches, I think I'm going to go new...I have been working with my guy at Mayors here, looking at 7K for it new with no date. I did find a 97 I like, but it doesn't come with the papers....that bothers me.
Approximate 1 month review of Omega Seamaster 300M Pros - By far the biggest is the dial. The white ceramic with the laser-etched wave patterns is stunning. The amount of depth and intricacy they created with the combination of the etched waves, the extra high applied indices, and the skeleton hands is really unique and beautiful. Touched on it above but the skeleton hands are really really cool. I typically strongly dislike thick hands, but the skeletonization (?) just gives it a super cool look. It really works well and they look awesome while lumed. I very much appreciate that the sides of the case are brushed and not polished. Hides all smudges, fingerprints, and will conceal scratches and dings much better than polished steel. Movement. I honestly didn’t know much about Omega’s calibers but the specs on it are pretty insane. Pretty much the gist is on top of COSC certification, it is also METAS certified which generally consists of everything the COSC does with the addition of some absurd amount of anti-magnetism. Good power reserve of 55h, nicely decorated. And once I figured the best position to rest it in (crown up), it gains about a second a day. Even though I’ll likely never take it in anything other than a swimming pool, the helium escape valve gives it a nice aesthetic in my opinion. Cons - Ok, I am a stickler about bezels but I promise I’m not being anal here. The bezel insert is not great. In fact, it’s not even good. Ceramic, yes. But the fact that the diving scale is not etched drives me fucking insane. It looks about one step up from my Tissot Seastar ($450 watch). Not great. I get it’s made with enamel which is fancy, but it looks really cheap. The fucking bezel itself. The knurling fucking sucks. No grip at all. Boggles my mind. In it’s defense, the bezel action is fantastic though. Rubber strap. I do love rubber straps and I have to say I was underwhelmed by this one. I don’t like tang clasps, but it’s really not that bad. The best way I can describe the rubber itself would be “unrefined”. It’s still serviceable and it does give me the look I want. The other thing is that at this point I am very sensitive about case thickness. It is the biggest factor in my decision regarding case dimensions. It’s good I am now sure about this moving forward, but this is absolutely as thick as I would ever want to go at 13.7mm. Ideally I would like 12.5-13 but this is still good. I want to say my wrists are 7 inches and this is on the outer limits of being slim enough to be versatile, and just thick enough to give solid wrist presence. Overall I do love it. I need to stop comparing it to a Sub because as is well documented, you could buy 3 of these for the price of a Sub. If you look at it like that, then yes this is dollar for dollar a much better watch. The Submariner is the better watch, but not sure you can beat this for the price. In many regards it shits on the Sub -- specifically the dial (big time) and perhaps has it beat on the the movement as well. I would recommend it to anyone concerned about value proposition or anyone looking for an entry-mid level luxury watch.
These are my beefs with the watch: With no grip on the bezel, nobody is diving with this watch... So, lose the helium escape valve Edit: To be clear, I love your Seamaster. I would have gotten your exact watch, if I didn’t opt for the Speedy.
This concerns me. It’s tough to know just how much difference 2mm makes without trying it on before buying.
I had the coolest thing today. The last patient of the day I talked with was a watch guy. He was wearing a 1945 omega, and just had a great collection of stuff I’d like, but nothing like AP’s etc.
Grand Seiko vs Tudor All things equal, which are you buying? I’m still looking for a dress watch and I’ve vacillated between vintage Longines and King Seikos and everything else. I really dig the linen dial of this Tudor. I am borderline a Seiko fanboy, but I’d take an automatic over a quartz. I’m fairly sauced and ready to make a regrettable decision. Let’s roll. Computer halp.
Ended up not buying any of the three. Only one I thought of through this hangover today was the linen dial prince date. Still think I could pull the trigger on that one. Also, neat:
Was at the Omega boutique in Bellagio on Thursday and saw the all black moon watch. It looked way cooler in person than I thought it would, so I'm gonna buy to wear with a black on black suit. It's different.
Almost bought a commemorative omega speed master in the same store for 6300ish...Passed because it was half of my bank account at that time.
Having a bad day and almost bought something as retail therapy. Talked myself out of it because I wasn’t prepared to be bitched at for it right now.
I hadn’t decided what I was going to buy. Between that and not wanting to get bitched at, I determined if I wasn’t prepared I shouldn’t pull the trigger. So I didn’t.
If you’re buying a pre-owned Rolex how important is having the box and papers? My wife bought me a sea dweller as a gift. Very nice watch but don’t love it and if she’s spending as much as she did I want to love it. It is nearly identical to a Tag I already own. Place she purchased it from has two that i like. I’m between a two tone GMT and a submariner. I like both but prefer the GMT. GMT is 5k more, it doesn’t have the papers or box but the submariner does.
If it doesn’t come with the papers you won’t be able to get it repaired by factory or ADs but as long as there’s a reputable watch repair jeweler nearby that you can go to they’ll be able to service it
It all comes down to whether or not you want to resell it later. If so, you’re better off with box and papers. If not, no big deal IMO.
I don’t think this is correct. They’ll service it as long as it’s genuine and not reported stolen in their database.
Do you mean in reference to Rolex or other high end watches? I had my Tag on that I purchased from Jomashop and was near an AD and stopped in to ask if I had any issues would they be able to service it and they said not without the original papers. They may have just been dicks but from my understanding the papers are what get factory repairs
My understanding is that It won’t be under warranty unless you have the papers that were registered at the AD (in the US should be transferable). However they should be able to service it.
That seems to make sense. I had the watch for a couple years at that point and mentioned that to them so they must have assumed I was asking about warranty repairs.
This is incorrect. I had my 1970s GMT refurbished by Rolex and they didn’t ask me for the papers. I do have them though. I’ve heard that they won’t work on it if they find extensive non-Rolex sanctioned work done to it already. Typically watchmakers/repairmen will leave a tiny mark inside the watch after any repairs to show they’ve been in there, and that can tip Rolex off. Not sure if that’s all true or not, but what I’ve heard.
Looked at the Daytona and Submariner. Sub was a 1997 and beat up a little so went with the 2016 Daytona. It’s my first ever purchase I’ve made for that amount of money. Love it though. Thanks for help.
It is and I really dig it although others here have said it wasn’t for them. Good fit and super comfortable.
I think they’re well made but don’t have a large audience and resale value. Definitely a watch to buy pre-owned and plan to keep for the long haul unless you don’t mind taking the hit
Really beautiful watch, but I’d prefer it with less complications. I’m not wearing a chronometer as a dress watch Take that with a grain of salt, I’m a minimalist with my watches. Still trying to get accustomed to my chronometer as a daily wear.
I have a nice inexpensive Hamilton as an every day watch, very minimalist and my style. I wouldn’t have a problem adding a chronometer as a “I have a deposition” watch day.