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Discussion in 'The Mainboard' started by MORBO!, Jul 5, 2015.
You got something under that post on top of the concrete or is it in direct contact?
Temporarily direct contact. Going to buy an anchor to put under it
Thanks, thats what I thought.
I found a guy on Etsy who can do the size I want in walnut for about $800 so I'm debating that. Going to go check out my local hardwood dealer to see what their price per linear foot is.
Made this set today for a friend
How did you prevent the stain from bleeding?
Gel stain. Cant swear by it enough. This one is two different stains and then the natural wood to make the third color.
When I first started making these I was using regular penetrating stain. I would press the tape or whatever else I was using as a stencil as hard as I could, use a hair dryer or a heat gun on it to make it stick extra good, and even use a razor knife to cut the grain to prevent bleeding, still would bleed a bit. Today when I made these I forgot to even press down on the tape before staining and still no bleeding. Also never use too much stain, use as little as possible until you have enough on there (still will need to wipe of any excess), and if you are ever working near the tape/stencil always pull the stain away from the tape never towards it.
Those are awesome man, really impressive. Quick question, what are you using for the top? Plywood?
Yeah 1/2” plywood
You can go thinner and it’ll be lighter but have more bounce or you can go thicker and they’ll be heavier but with less bounce. I found that half inch is a nice happy medium.
Happy medium between more bounce and more bounce?
There’s a Woodturning game for iPhone and I don’t hate it.
The ads on this game are wild.
Nothing spectacular but I had an hour or so to play around on making a mitered bridle joint
Very nice. One cut to tighten up for next time and your golden.
That’s where a Japanese style ryoba or dozuki pull saw is going to come in clutch.
I feel like all you really need is the square and pointed bits and the default sponge. Also the ads are so intrusive
Yeah you can see in the 2nd pic I’m way off on the tenon shoulders, need to sort out a stop on a miter fence but hand cut might be the best option over the table saw
Looking to get a drill press soon. Trying to decide if I want some old American iron or a new one that will probably be an import. I’d love to have a vintage American machine but I’ve been searching around and there’s not too many on the market right now. On eBay there’s a 12” Dunlap that looks cool but with shipping I could get a modern machine with way more features for cheaper.
I think I have it narrowed between the Wen 12” bench top and the Shop Fox W1667.
Digital speed readout
Table roller extension
Shop Fox specs:
Oscillating for contoured sanding
I like that the Wen is cheaper and has some features that the Shop Fox doesn’t. But I do like the oscillating feature of the Shop Fox. I think that could come in handy in guitar building.
If anyone has any advice or knows of another good drill please share.
I hear good things about JET
Wanting to build a raised garden, but I am not handy whatsoever. I can hang a picture, but that’s about it. Any good plans out there? Or should I just buy a kit from Lowe’s/Home Depot?
I built mine off some plans my architect buddy mocked up for me that were really easy to follow. Just went to home depot and bought the wood and hardware. Give me some time to try to find the email with the plans and I’ll try to post them here.
Actually its probably easier to just forward you the email with the instructions, so if you want them, send me a DM with your email THEBLUERAIDER
Sent. Thanks, man.
I'd hardly call myself handy but the wife is. Last week we built a very basic farmhouse table and two benches for the patio. Found plans and a YouTube video online. She pointed and I drilled. I am happy with the table but hate the stain we used. Shit looks like brown paint.
Been building this huge ass deck around an above ground pool for a couple months now, after today I’m starting to see the finish line.
I’ve done it all by myself. I first thought the 16 foot roof joists were the worst part. Nope. I then thought the osb boards was the hardest part. Nope. That damn metal I put underneath was the worst fucking thing ever. Holy shit it was hard (and not perfect but oh well). Went with burnished slate on top to match the house and other buildings, Hawaiian blue underneath.
Gotta put the osb up in the back and the siding boards, insulate the storage building and tile the floor and then build a bar and an island and be done.
I gotta change out the fan bulb to make it daylight like the other lights.
second photo was before the spindles or stain was applied.
Not exactly woodworking, but I’m redoing my laminate countertops with epoxy resin. Just got them bondo’d sanded, and primed. Going to do a white resin base with a deep gray marbling. All resin for the color and patterning, no paint. Could be great, could be terrible. We’ll find out tomorrow.
Need a table saw recommendation. I’ve done a bunch of reviews and can’t seem to settle on one. Don’t want to spend a bunch of money, but I also understand I get what I pay for. Would like to keep it around or under $500. I do a lot of projects around the house and want to build a bathroom vanity and some cabinets at some point. I’ve been using a jig for my circular saw, but it’s not as consistent as I want it to be. Would prefer a 10” blade with dado capabilities, but I think I could do a lot of the dado and rabet cuts with a router (which I’ve considered). Anybody have a strong opinion on something out there?
If you're set on building cabinets, you're working with some sheet goods, so you'll want a table that extends min. 2 feet. We run the Ridgid 10" jobsite saws and have for years. Recently bought the small (footprint) 10" Dewalt for jobs where we have to carry it upstairs (big trim outs or hw flooring, typically) and love it, but you aren't building cabinets with a saw that size. Honestly, to handle 4x8 material you need some weight, and while I've certainly done it on the Ridgid, it takes about 3 people not to waste your $50/sheet plywood. If you go looking, remember that 75% of a tablesaw is the accuracy and locking of the fence. Don't skimp on the blade either. Freud and Marples (now Irwin) make some nice 40T ripping blades with combo ATB teeth and Teflon coating.
Here’s a fine woodworking review of job site saws from 2009. I got the Bosch and have no complaints, regularly use dado blades on it although it requires a bigger clearance plate. Working with 4’ wide sheet goods can be a pain in the ass though, if I needed to do that on a regular basis id build a side/outfeed table
This is the one I have. It's $569. I don't think it was quite that much when I bought it. It's good for what it is which is a job site saw. Its fence has limitations. Miter gauge is a bit loose but you're going to run into that with most job site saws. Overall it's a good saw but there are probably as good ones for closer to $500 if you're stuck on that number.
Also these guys review a bunch of different aspects of tablesaws.
I built a workbench for my garage that’s 89” long and 48” wide. Should work for an outfeed table. And I thought about rough ripping down the ply to more manageable sizes before using the table saw for more precise and consistent cuts.
A little tip I learned, put everything on casters
I currently have the Dewalt 10" and I love it. I always measure the fence and blade to make sure it is accurate and it surprisingly almost always is. They just came out with a newer model but it is basically the same thing - so, the one I have is on sale. Google Dewalt Table Saws and you'll see places that have a $300 one that is pretty much the same as the $550 one.
The one thing that sucks about the DeWalt is the 7480 that was discontinued was a 10” blade and the 7485 that replaced it is an 8.25” blade. Rip capacity is still 24.5”, which is nice. I wish I could buy the 7491 by itself without either stand. That’s the saw I’d really like. 10” blade, 32.5” right rip, rack and pinion fence. But as far as I can tell, I can only buy that saw with the rolling or X stand, which I don’t necessarily want because I’m thinking about building a mounting space on the edge of my workbench for it. Also, DeWalt’s won’t take a dado stack because it’s a European manufacturer and dados aren’t allowed in Europe (or so I read).
Ultimately, I might go with the 7485, even with the smaller blade, because the 2.5” max cut height should be enough for just about everything I’ll cut. And I can get that through Amazon for $279 with free shipping.
Here is 7480 (tool only) for $379
But the $279 7485 and a router isnt all bad.
Save a couple hundred more and get a hybrid saw. Let me spend your money for you
I've seen them called hybrid saws but you start getting a cabinet saw type look that somewhere in between
I had a friend in HS who's grandpa had a dual arm radial saw in his shop
I really strive to be there some day
Looks like a normal table saw that I'm used too.
Go wild. Get a panel saw.
Much heavier so it can handle much larger material without moving the saw around.
Just use a fucking handsaw or a small serrated kitchen knife.
I understand, it's just what I grew up with as a table saw.
Just found a hack for this on reddit. You can buy the 7480 rails that fit perfectly on the 745. So it will give you the 745 with a 10” blade and the 24.5” rip capacity of the 7480/7485.