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Discussion in 'The Mainboard' started by MORBO!, Jul 5, 2015.
It was a small workbench
First thing I made
Lol. That would be amazing. About 30 of them.
Educate me...why do so many benches use MDF for the top?
It’s flat, relatively cheap for its size, and strong as shit.
no grain so there’s no seasonal movement.
Also, if you ruin the top, who cares. Just replace it
Just don't get it wet
One youtube guy loves using mdf and then finishes it to protect it. If you don't care about aesthetics
Built this a while back. Pretty easy with 2x4s and plywood. Heavy as hell but casters help
A lot of furniture uses mdf and then adds expensive vaneers
Biggest thing I miss on my simple bench is a good apron for clamping and/or a much bigger vice
Like the built in saw, it’s another thing to consider, either leaving room for a saw or matching the height of your saw for outfeed
Can you adjust those legs on the table saw to make it flush with the bench surface? That would be perfect.
Having an outfeed table is clutch
I installed my old kitchen cabinets in the garage. Makes a great work bench and storage with minimal effort.
Do you have any issues with your casters binding up when you rotate the bench? I built something similar but it’s a pain in the ass to turn. I figured it was because of the weight but I’m thinking now I just bought shitty casters.
This. I used 2x6s thinking it would be super strong. Over the years the the pieces have all cupped in different directions making the surface very uneven. Luckily with today’s lumber prices I can probably sell them on Craigslist and make cash.
This is what I did in my old house and it was perfect. Just cut down some plywood and added some quarter round on the edge. I miss that work bench.
They previous homeowners tried to do something similar and it looks like the cabinets they used are particle board and they are falling apart. The garage is already shorter than I would like so I can’t build it too deep. I am thinking 12 inches at the most. Just a small working space which runs the width of the garage. Seems pretty simple.
Famous last words.
I ended up putting strips of Masonite under the feet of the saw which made it level. Makes it look like an obvious oversight but works great
Never had too much issue but try to clean/sweep frequently to avoid that. Haven't moved the bench in a while from where it is so I am sure it would be an issue now
The house we bought has nature’s stone on the floor. Looks nice but cleaning the sawdust and dirt out of it is going to cause me to have an aneurysm.
Shitty casters will do that speaking from experience. Also make sure they're rated for the weight they're holding up
What's a good miter saw for home use? I don't really make anything per se but may here and there in the future. Trying to keep it reasonably priced, around $200, cheaper is fine too.
I have this one. The smaller blade works for the majority of what I do.
Think one of the main considerations with a mitre saw is if you're going to be cutting 4x4s.
Potentially. Maybe going a size bigger on that Kobalt would work?
You'll want to make sure you can cut 4x12's if you ever want to build anything structural
yeah you'll need either a 10 or 12 inch if your want to cut 4x4s.
Does anyone have consumer reports who could post reviews on miter saws, as well as brad and finish nailers? I am stupid when it comes to anything other then my cordless drill.
Built some bulkheads around HVAC this morning so we can get basement drywall hung next week.
Been debating whether I should get more into hand tools. Not sure why or what I would make, but something about it seems meditative…
Big fan of dozuki and ryoba hand saws.
I don’t have room or money (or wiring) for a jointer so hand planes it is. Definitely a learning curve but it is satisfying when they work well
Just make sure to get the sharpening part right of hand tools. Everything is easier when shits sharp
No clue what I’d do without it
edit: the deluxe version includes a guide for chisels
The drywall manager guy failed to point out some missing framing around some doorways and a drain stack on Friday. Stuff that nobody would really realize is needed to wrap the the drywall the way that they planned. Anyway, had to go get lumber and do that this morning with the hangers watching and boy I tell ya, the pressure was heavy.
How do I fixed warped boards? I bought a bunch of lumber from Home Depot and what I built is too damn inconsistent because sawing everything with warped/twisted boards resulted in slightly different sized cuts.
What are you building?
A large planter with a raised bed. 78” long by 25” wide and 34” tall. That means I can’t just trim that board shorter and discard.
Is it treated pine?
That shit bends and moves all over the place as the water dries out of it.
I can't tell for sure from the picture, but that looks like 1 x 6's, which yea you are gunna have a hard time with unless they are screwed off every 16" or so.
You got a link to the plans for the planter you are building
Basically the below video, but without the metal edges and sized to my specs. And with the 2x6s in the middle so there is only ~16” of depth for soil.
Home Depot didn’t have 1x6s so they are 1x4s.
If your four sides are pretty good and solid I’d either:
A. Take the corners apart and then lay each side panel flat and use a skill saw with a straight edge to cut them all flush and square.
B. Trim your corners and call it a day.
Put those metal corners on and no one will know
Sometimes you can clamp shit together good enough to shoot some screws into it to hold it. Next time hold the boards up and put your eye down it and try to get mostly straight ones. Pretty common to get pine that janky and yeah it fucks up measurements if it's off enough
Or buy a saw mill and do your own quality control straight from the tree.
Let's not forget the fun of storing the wood and waiting for it to dry out.
I guess the only suggestion I would have is to give more points of contact with screws and stuff to keep the warping from being an issue with the final build.
In the future, I would just probably: (1) go to a better lumber yard than a big box store; and/or (2) make sure to go through each board and try to pick the ones that have the fewest flaws in them.
I love Menards because that’s where the people who build stuff a lot go around here. There’s always essentially a reject pile, and a stack of new untouched boards to sort through.
It may not sound all that sporting, but buying premade pine shiplap is a pretty good play for this sort of project. They tend to be good boards because they’re selected to have the grooves cut and be a finished part. And your gaps will be consistent. The cost is much higher, though.
Also check your saw. I’ve found that the stops on a lot of miter saws have some play, meaning you could be a degree off in your cuts and cause bad fits as well. I started using a speed square against the blade and fence to set my saw.