Trying to solder some new capacitors to my old ass Emotiva UMC-200. The old ones blew or are bowing. I'm a new solderer so please be gentle. Good thing with solder is you can always burn it off and try again.
I had a transistor short on my car ECU and had all of them replaced at a TV repair shop in town for like $30. I'm sure there is somewhere around you that could repair that for cheap... because that looks like a pain working with capacitors that small
I've soldered a lot of things in my day, but am no means an expert But in my opinion you fucked that board up southlick
Titan N-100 tankless water heater appears to be dead. No lights, no hot water. It’s 8 years old. Should last longer than that right? Think I should just replace it? Who does this a plumber?
Mostly a plumber though might be worth doing some troubleshooting yourself (if you haven’t already). Is it electric or gas? If electric is the circuit thrown? If gas is the pilot light going?
If you already did this then sorry but Google has a whole bunch of troubleshooting tips for electric water heaters that might be useful.
My water heater is leaking. Was put in 12/21/18. Warranty is 6 years on that. Cannot believe it really.
No shade, that’s a real bad solder job. Need to do it not drunk / high, and what kind of soldering iron are you using? Be super careful Cuz a shitty ungrounded soldering iron can static zap electronics and kill them, I know from experience. A decent quality soldering station is prob around $100 or so, I haven’t looked recently. It will make a huge difference. If you want to limp along with a shitty pen, you can, but make sure it’s hot before touching the solder. You don’t want to leave the pen on shit forever or you will burn it. And again make sure it’s grounded. I’m not a pro solderer by any means but have learned from volt modding graphics cards and building crossovers over the years. Edit: can prob also watch YouTube for some pointers.
one other thing, you need to keep the tip tinned constantly and if not it will make life worse. Also the solder you use will make a big difference on how easy it is. Find eutectic rosin core solder so you need less/no flux.
I have some practice stuff from amazon coming later in the week. Going to stick to that before I fuck up anymore circuit boards.
Would you rather go on a vacation in the Caribbean for 6 nights or have a new front door? When you're on your death bed and you look back at your life , would you rather think, "I had some really good memories and experiences." or "Man that was a damn fine looking front door."
You're going to lose this battle with the ole lady so you may as well suck it up and get the door. That's a lot of "first day of school" photos she's planning in front of that fancy n ew door.
Right your memory would be "I had some really good memories and experiences, but that bitch wouldn't let me hear the end of it about that door"
I'm getting quotes for a single door instead of double door. Still salty about $6k for a door. Yes I know I spent that much on electronics on my boat this year. I don't want to hear about it.
Halo 20 radar dome, 12" Simrad NSS EVO3, Simrad 3 in 1 transducer with sidescan, Simrad to Yamaha interface cable, trolling motor stabilizer mount
goddamnit do I have to remove the old compression fitting rings and nuts and replace them with the new compression fitting rings and nuts? Replacing electric tankless water heater. Same exact model. Removal of old was fairly easy. Put new one on and I have a very slow leak at the cold water intake and hot water out. There is a compression fitting ring and nut on each side. I tried loosening and re-tightening but same leak. I don't think I overtightened. I don't even know if removing a compression fitting ring is possible off the copper pipe, or if the pipe would have to be cut and new copper installed? I know, I know. I'm continuing to google/youtube...
Pulled the old compression rings and nuts off, fuck those things. Polished up the copper nice now re-installing new water heater with new rings and nuts. wish me luck
The best part of plumbing is every time you leave the house for a few days in the next couple years you'll worry about your fittings failing and coming home to a flooded house.
Thanks bigred77 I was still trying to make some tweaks like seeing if a little extra quarter turn tighten would fix it but nope. Still a verrrry slow leak on both side, cold in, hot out. Leak on the outside of the nut. Instructions say don't use any teflon tape, NOTHING aside from the compression ring and nut. slow leak at red arrow Zoomed in: Zoomed in on the other/cold side where the leak is: