TBH would try to get in a lease of almost anything to buy time if your car isn't absolutely broken down. The market is insane. Also, just fix your car. An '06 Tahoe isn't anything crazy to have someone work on.
Dont worry I'm going to run it into the ground. Im starting to have some electrical issues and have had to put ~1,500$ into it in the past year to keep it going. Just wanted to be prepared if the time came
Like ignition coils? If so, that's something you could DIY no problem. If it's other electrical, yeah, no fun.
My wife is passing 8 years on her 2014 CX5 Grand Touring. Oil changes, brakes, and tires are the only things she has put into it. Can't say enough good things.
2019 Volvo XC90 T5 Momentum 23k miles $45k 2017 Audi Q7 3.0T Premium plus Quattro 80k miles $32k ugggghhhhhh god I hate this shit I’m going to just keep driving my old-ass car
I now have to get the gas line fix/tank fixed. When I pump gas it’ll pop off in 2 seconds. So I have to barley squeeze the handle which means it takes me 15 minutes to pump 10 gallons of gas. There are times I’ll start the car and it starts up super strange, lights will flicker, but it’s different than a dying battery or bad alternator. Then when I start it the next time it’s completely dead. This happens about once every 3 months. I’ve been told the battery and alternator are good. I’ve tried pulling fuses/battery draw test to see if something like a power seat motor is going bad and haven’t had luck. Plus the AC doesn’t blow cold air anymore (which isn’t fun in Florida) tried all the quick fixes without luck.
Thanks. I don't know if our problems (and therefore fixes) are the exact same due to 04 vs 06, but Ill add my 2c. Does barely inserting the pump nozzle do anything? re starting - I replaced the alternator ($400?) at around 200k, and continued to have issues across the next year - turns out the battery terminals were not making strong contact, so the car would either 1) not turn over to start or 2) actually fail right after turning the vehicle on. I ended up replacing the side post/ terminal rails on the battery. Maybe like $10 for a 2 pack. I also had a terrible battery (Interstate?) that had an awesome warranty, so the battery kept failing, but I would be eligble for a free replacement, so I would ride with it till it died and was replaced for free. I think Chevy SUVS from that time period can't pump cold air to save their life - so no help there. If that's all the problems you have (and you're past 100-150k miles) your car sounds in decent shape, notwithstanding knowledge of your other repairs. My wife, due to having 2 newborns, made me buy a new car w/in the last year, but buying a car right now just sucks, new or used.
The battery terminals issue mentioned is a good place to start on the draw. Also, just get a cheap OBD2 Bluetooth code reader off Amazon. Sometimes stuff will show up on those. I thin mine (Veepeak?) was like $30. RE AC, that's fairly easy to do on a charge kit. That's just a temp fix, but it's worth it. On our old van, the system itself was fine, but the Schraeder valve was failing. You had to screw it on REALLY TIGHT and it'd be good for like 6 mos.
I ordered a new SUV from Chevrolet and I'll never buy a car any other way. Picked out everything we wanted. I'm sure this is old news to this thread but let me have my moment.
I read this post and immediately knew the Bricktop the white signal had been shot into the air. Glad he didn’t disappoint on the Mazda talk.
Not quite but everything used we could find was just as expensive and some were more expensive. When we built this one now we took off so much bullshit they add on. The lady was shocked we didn't want all this stuff. My wife has a spreadsheet where she's called around for pricing on tint, cargo lining, etc. It's going to save us a good bit doing it ourselves. I was happy with everything and having no leverage in this market, I took what I could get. The Tahoe's are selling before they ever get to the dealer here.
With 3 kids, best purchase I’ve made. I put a deposit down on a Tahoe a month before it was scheduled to be built. Should have by mid June. Paying MSRP + $1,500 in “dealer installed accessories”, which somehow felt like a win. I must have contacted 25-30 dealers around the state and everyone else either wanted $4k+ in dealer installed accessories, or a straight markup of $6k-$12k.
I believe it. I should have mine by late August. I've got another kid on the way and the Explorer ain't gonna cut it. They worked with us on the price only because I have a trade in. The trade in also saved me ~$1K in taxes.
I think this is what everyone is going to have to do now. I'm not sure if it's a consolation to save a few bucks when you realize it costs them MAYBE $20k to make one of those.
I ordered a truck last month. Found a dealer that was willing to commit to a fixed amount below MSRP. With some manufacturer incentives I had available, the purchase price will be slightly below invoice. For reference, this dealership was selling the same model on the lot with a multi-thousand dollar markup. The scheduling and production process is not for the faint of heart right now due to supply chain issues and commodity restraints, but as long as you don't need a vehicle ASAP, this is the way to get the best deal on a new vehicle and get precisely what you want.
It's sorta cool that it's going back to this way. I remember as a kid thinking how boring it was that you had to get an LX or EX Honda...NO OPTIONS. Back in the day, you could get whatever random combo of things you wanted. I don't think that's a bad thing. We have an MB wagon that has everything you could order that year...except autonomous driving assists. It's a great car, but very unusual. Again, not bad to get what you want!
Paid sticker for my Odyssey. My wife's car was beat to shit so I was concerned about trade in but they gave me what I asked. It had some accessories I didn't care about but I got 500 off as a recent graduate. (Finished a grad degree recently). Super easy experience other than taking forever for the car to come.
If I could find an Odyssey for MSRP I’d probably buy another. Dealer offered me $34k on our 2018 w 33k miles that I paid $37k for. They then wanted $5k over MSRP for a new one.
We were shopping for about two months looking to replace my wife’s RAV4 that was wrecked and having no luck finding anything available that had the specs we wanted. Started talking to a dealer that I’ve heard bad things about a couple hours away and was pretty irritated with them at first, they refused to ever answer questions over email and were doing a $5k dealer markup. They got the exact car we were looking for and said the markup was non-negotiable to take it off completely, but they dropped it to $3500. After that car sold, they said if we’d be willing to put down a deposit, then they would sell us the next one that matched at MSRP, to which I reluctantly agreed. Our luck turned though because the previous one that we wanted buyers fell through, and they honored the no markup agreement, and it’s scheduled to be built within the next week. Very pumped to have this behind us soon. 2022 RAV4 Hybrid Limited
Great feedback in this thread. I need to start contacting dealers via email and get some things in the works. I’m in similar position where I don’t need something ASAP but getting something in the works would be good. Question for the folks who posted above today - what about TEST DRIVING? Do people still do that? If just buying online what are you doing about that
We didn’t test drive this exact vehicle, but we did go test drive a different Toyota hybrid as I have never driven one before. Our previous RAV4 was only a couple years old, so we knew we’d ideally want to replace it as close as possible, but the switch to hybrid was an unexpected decision
so I’m trying to decide between rav4 hybrid and cx-5. Did you look at any others or were you pretty committed to another rav?
Wife was pretty set on going with another rav so we didn’t do much comparison. I honestly don’t know much about how the two would compare but I really like the rav, I’m about 6’1” and have never felt cramped in it. My only complaint is that you have to buy the highest trim then add options to get all the features we really want so it’s a higher price point compared to similar vehicles. I can attest to its safety features though which is a huge plus, she rolled hers off the highway in bad weather and was completely uninjured
you might have to test drive another trim level or even a used one if that's all they have on the lot. I was buying the same model, and was very comfortable already. There is now YouTube so you can pull up reviews or walkthroughs if you want to dive in. I was kinda uninformed because I didn't even get to see the two colors I was most interested in with my own eyes. The colors, afaik, were only available on the new Suburbans/Tahoes, and there were never any on the lot. Just pictures from Chevy's site, which were terrible.
Im on the Care by Volvo subscription for my 22 XC90. They just emailed me that they will buy me out of my subscription if I'm interested. Didn't tell me how much, and not sure I am even interested. The demand for slightly used high end SUVs is insane.
I’ve been looking at upgrading my 2016 Ford Fusion to a Mazda CX 5. Should I pull the trigger before rates climb?
You shouldn't be borrowing longer than 48 months anyways so the change of 50 or 100bps isn't going to make that much of a difference. Find what you like/want and try to get it without a markup.
For the family guys in here that might be looking for a new van, we traded in our odyssey back in December. Going on 5 months now with the new Sienna. Love that van. The ride is so smooth and we’re getting 32 mpg. Just fyi for anyone out there.